RC10B4.1 FT/WC
07-16-2012 | 02:46 PM
[QUOTE=Wildcat1971;10980660]I cant see how it would possibly make a difference on this application. The hex and bearing will spinning at the same speed 99% of the time. The hex has a lip the diameter of the inner race of the bearing. I dont run any shims with mine (Proline rear hex) and the anodized finish where it meets the bearing has not discolored. The finish on the inside hub where it meets the outer race of the bearing on the other hand...
07-16-2012 | 02:54 PM
My sc10 4x4 has plastic hex and i have never had an issue yet, but people claim they melt very easily. Same line of thought here. Besides if there is a gap, why not shim it to closer tolerances.
07-16-2012 | 02:56 PM
I thought mine were yellow. And i have tried the 3 inch lift trick. lol, it never works. I hold the rear wheels and give it gas and nothing. The motor just makes a sound that tells me to leave it alone before it explodes, lol. This is what I do. Put the car down, hold both rear wheel and give it gas and attempt to lift the front wheels. But nothing slips and the front wheels stay on the ground.
07-16-2012 | 03:35 PM
In my case, there isnt room for a shim but like I said, there shouldnt be a reason for significant friction between these two parts.
07-16-2012 | 03:37 PM
07-16-2012 | 04:44 PM
Something has to be wrong. My son started w/an ancient low torque SP ultra sportsman v2 17.5 geared 30/72 & even in blinky it would lift the front wheels.
EDIT: what is your current limiter on the ESC set at?
07-16-2012 | 04:46 PM
if i remember right,i asked about the current limiter and randy pike said for blinky just turn it off?
07-16-2012 | 05:05 PM
Hideeho
With a 10.5t motor & no cl, if you hold both rear wheels & gas it one of 3 things MUST happen: something slips (dif or slipper), the front wheels lift, or something binds (doesn't allow the motor to turn).
watch this video. Your buggy should be making one of these sounds when you gas it while holding the wheels.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fjiMNTmtynU
With a 10.5t motor & no cl, if you hold both rear wheels & gas it one of 3 things MUST happen: something slips (dif or slipper), the front wheels lift, or something binds (doesn't allow the motor to turn).
watch this video. Your buggy should be making one of these sounds when you gas it while holding the wheels.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fjiMNTmtynU
Last edited by Waflet; 07-16-2012 at 05:18 PM.
07-16-2012 | 05:17 PM
Hideeho
Is that a regular length chassis? That body looks awfully stubby. I find the differences in the way a body looks @ different lengths. I don't like that as much as the +8 version & the +8 FTW nightfox looks goofy but the +15 looks pretty good.
Is that a regular length chassis? That body looks awfully stubby. I find the differences in the way a body looks @ different lengths. I don't like that as much as the +8 version & the +8 FTW nightfox looks goofy but the +15 looks pretty good.
07-16-2012 | 05:33 PM
Kind off topic.. But I have been looking for some decent tools for some time now and I have been looking at this:
http://www.hobby-pros.com/Team-Assoc...le-_p_152.html
But I couldn't find out what was done to the tips to make them stronger.. So I wasn't sure if it would be worth buying. Because my current tools are the EXI from hobbypartz... How is that tools?
http://www.hobby-pros.com/Team-Assoc...le-_p_152.html
But I couldn't find out what was done to the tips to make them stronger.. So I wasn't sure if it would be worth buying. Because my current tools are the EXI from hobbypartz... How is that tools?
07-16-2012 | 05:55 PM
So I think I figured out why my b4 has been weird with the alum hubs......The A hubs rub on the inside of the rim when that sloppy hub moves around. All of my rear rims have a line scored in them /angry. I think i will go back to the plastic hubs unless i need the C hub installed.