Mine look like this

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...pper-Pad-Set-2

Ah your running the HD pads. Do they work better than the garodiscs?

Use a half height nylock. Works great.

Garodisc pads for the B4:

http://rcshox.com/shoxshop/catalog/p...products_id=56

Holy $17, !

I'm with brent, the high-torque slipper pads should be fine. And you can buy 3 sets at the LHS for the price of 1 set of Garodisc pads.

I'm confused on the whole "shims between the hex and bearing" thing. Am I wrong to think that you don't want the hex, plastic or aluminum, rubbing on the bearing? I always thought the hex was supposed to sit all the way against the pin and let it take the load of the wheel nut. The bearings we use aren't designed for static side loads, right? If you get binding when the wheel is tightened down, you remove a shim (if one's there) or start shaving the backside of the hex. Stop when the binding stops. That's how I've always done it. Same goes if it's too loose obviously, start adding. Most of the issues I read about on the hex conversions (for the B4 or SC10) are related to binding. No one ever complains about too much slop in this area.
This goes for front or rear. If people are bending c-clips in the front or blowing bearings in the back just by tightening their wheels, something is really out of whack, IMO.

You want to put a axle shim between the hex and the outside bearing. I don't want the hex rubbing against the bearing. Yes, the shim acts as a plate for the hex to sit on to distribute any side-load to the bearing without tearing up either the bearing or the hex itself. It *also* ensures a snug fit (which is why you might use more than one shim, depending on how your setup fits together). There should also be a crush tube/bearing spacer/whatever you want to call it between the bearings in the hub carrier to *help* keep from blowing out either bearing during a catastrophic side-hit (note the key word here is *help*).

Yes, the hex should engage all the way into the pin, but there should still be room for 1+ shims between the hex and the bearing. I don't have any binding issues using 1 shim.

I see what you're saying - if the hex is fully seated into the axle pin, it should never press against the bearing - but if that's the case, then you *would* have slop, requiring a shim or two to correct. Make sense?

Again, when I put it together, I slip the CVA axle through the bearings, install a single axle shim on the outside, then the pin, then push the CVA axle out (toward where the wheel will go), put the hex on, pushing toward the hub, pinch the CVA joint and hex between my fingers, and tighten the hex clamping screw.

When i install the wheel, I don't tighten the ever-loving crap out of it. That's the nylock's job. When it doesn't wiggle, it's tight enough.

yeah, I just snug my buggy wheels. The nylon lockers should keep it from spinning off.

I don't think it's always necessary to have at least one shim. It's all about test fitting. I'd rather sneak up on a slop free fit than worry if the hex is seated against the pin (kinda like racer53's diff building videos ), though you can figure that out if it binds when the wheel nut is tightened. I don't mean gorilla tight, but pretty snug.

With the clamping hexes, I leave it loose during the test fitting, and only tighten it once I know what the clearances are like. IMO with the JC's, the clamping force is really only enough to keep it from sticking in the wheel, otherwise it strips. I stripped one on initial installation. I couldn't believe how little force it took to do it either. I'm picking up a 2-56 tap tonight to 'repair' it.

Trust me when I say they are well worth the 17$ they don't fade or glaze ever you dOnt have to replace them

So they work well in the B4?

Hmmm... but the VTS looks cooler.. kind of.. maybe not.. I dunno.

They both cost about the same, wouldn't the VTS be the way to go for more adjustability and/or "WTF-factor"?

[QUOTE=Jeckler;10980326]I don't think it's always necessary to have at least one shim. It's all about test fitting.....QUOTE]

As a rule, I just don't put anything up against a bearing unless there's some sort of shim/washer there.

I dunno, I found it very sensitive to adjust. I didnt like it. I am told it works well on SC10 2wd and of course 4wd.

[QUOTE=jf+;10980652]+1 I agree. I dont ever put plastic against my bearings. And only metal that is about the size of the inner race.

That I can agree with, kinda. But the inner race shouldn't be spinning around the axle, just like the outer race shouldn't be loose in the hub...and the hub on the hingepin... and the arms shouldn't have .5mm of slop.. or the rack.... you get the idea.
So in that case I'd start shaving the hex if it was still binding.
I guess my point was that I keep seeing people talk about how their wheels are binding up when the nut's tightened and it just didn't seem like the responses were on-target. Most of them seemed to be along the lines of just back the nut off. If I did that on my daughter's car, she'd lose a wheel before getting her transponder checked in.