RC10B4.1 FT/WC
06-27-2012 | 10:20 AM
Tech Rookie
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 10
From: Middleboro, MA
All of the hex screws on the B4 are fractional, and therefore use fractional drivers, except for the motor screws. Those are 2.5mm hex because the motor manufacturers have all standardized on metric. (You can actually use a fractional hex on the motor screws, but a 2.5mm fits best.)
06-27-2012 | 10:26 AM
06-27-2012 | 10:27 AM
All of the hex screws on the B4 are fractional, and therefore use fractional drivers, except for the motor screws. Those are 2.5mm hex because the motor manufacturers have all standardized on metric. (You can actually use a fractional hex on the motor screws, but a 2.5mm fits best.)
Sure beats using an adjustable wrench to take them off. Other drivers look at you funny.
06-27-2012 | 10:30 AM
lol, the only tool i hate to see used for adjusting the car is a vice grips. When I see someone using a vice grips to adjust camber, remove wheels etc, I get a cold chill down my spine thinking of the poor guy that buys that buggy on ebay/forums.
06-27-2012 | 01:41 PM
Ted...bro...I was asking you which shock bottom "eyelets" and upper mounting "bushings" you used to mount the BB velvets...LOL Nothing about the spring cups and retainers.
06-27-2012 | 04:18 PM
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 58
06-27-2012 | 05:13 PM
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 198
From: Hesperia, Ca
I praise my b4 after drive a losi 22 because that thing could not turn to save its life compared to my b4. Maybe it was just his 22 but yup that car made me even a bigger b4 fan. 1 thing it did have was smoother landings with its bigbores but mines smoothe enough.
06-27-2012 | 07:48 PM
06-27-2012 | 08:06 PM
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (5)
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 96
From: St. Louis area
Im still very new and bought a AE 4.1...if i would have known better I would have bought the wordls car because ive heard its a bit easier to drive. My car is assembled now and im going to put electroincs in soon. Im going to be running 17.5 class at my local track. Without me trying to sort out all the info from this thread what mods are necessary and what are more bling? I have a regular car no team model..i got a great deal on it. It has bearings everywhere of course I have read to change out the CVA right away? Any suggestions would help out.
06-27-2012 | 08:14 PM
Im still very new and bought a AE 4.1...if i would have known better I would have bought the wordls car because ive heard its a bit easier to drive. My car is assembled now and im going to put electroincs in soon. Im going to be running 17.5 class at my local track. Without me trying to sort out all the info from this thread what mods are necessary and what are more bling? I have a regular car no team model..i got a great deal on it. It has bearings everywhere of course I have read to change out the CVA right away? Any suggestions would help out.
- A lot of ppl run the Avid steering rack.
- If you dont have titanium turnbuckles, I consider that a must. The steel will bend fast, at least mine never last more than a race or 2.
- If you start popping of ball cups the rpm ball cups are very nice. A nice trick is to drill a hole in the tops of the cups where you often make adjustments, for easy of access to the hex ball studs. I like them drilled on my inside camber cups because those get messed with the most.
- Brown spring front and green springs rear if you don't have those on the car now. That is pretty standard, some setups put silver in the rear.
Have you bought the electronics yet? I could suggest some really good ones for a low price new. I recently came back to the hobby and wasted money on junk, and found some pretty good stuff for 1/2 the price of the junk.
Last edited by Wildcat1971; 06-27-2012 at 08:25 PM.
06-27-2012 | 11:19 PM
Tech Addict
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 589
From: Bakersfield ,CA
I am not sure which version you have. Personally, I would find a good baseline setup for the track you race at. 90% of the tuning will be the tires, talk to the other guys and use the ones that work for your track. You will probably need to add some lead weight, so pick up a little of that. A ride height gauge might be nice to make sure you where you need to be. After you have a good setup and the right tires, then maybe start looking at your budget and what is the best upgrade. The +8 chassis and the +8 body will run you around $65, so you might want to make sure you need it first. Some people like the shorter chassis better.
- A lot of ppl run the Avid steering rack.
- If you dont have titanium turnbuckles, I consider that a must. The steel will bend fast, at least mine never last more than a race or 2.
- If you start popping of ball cups the rpm ball cups are very nice. A nice trick is to drill a hole in the tops of the cups where you often make adjustments, for easy of access to the hex ball studs. I like them drilled on my inside camber cups because those get messed with the most.
- Brown spring front and green springs rear if you don't have those on the car now. That is pretty standard, some setups put silver in the rear.
Have you bought the electronics yet? I could suggest some really good ones for a low price new. I recently came back to the hobby and wasted money on junk, and found some pretty good stuff for 1/2 the price of the junk.
- A lot of ppl run the Avid steering rack.
- If you dont have titanium turnbuckles, I consider that a must. The steel will bend fast, at least mine never last more than a race or 2.
- If you start popping of ball cups the rpm ball cups are very nice. A nice trick is to drill a hole in the tops of the cups where you often make adjustments, for easy of access to the hex ball studs. I like them drilled on my inside camber cups because those get messed with the most.
- Brown spring front and green springs rear if you don't have those on the car now. That is pretty standard, some setups put silver in the rear.
Have you bought the electronics yet? I could suggest some really good ones for a low price new. I recently came back to the hobby and wasted money on junk, and found some pretty good stuff for 1/2 the price of the junk.
