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Old 06-24-2012 | 11:03 AM
  #15976  
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Originally Posted by bds81175
This is what the hobby is all about. We need more folks like this at all of our tracks.
+1,000,000
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Old 06-24-2012 | 12:19 PM
  #15977  
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Hey Guys and Gals,
Looking for some RTR turnbuckles to complete another car and 1 rear dog bone to complete another car. If you have extras please let me know.

thanks,
Vince
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Old 06-24-2012 | 12:46 PM
  #15978  
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Originally Posted by EvanAZ
Hey Guys and Gals,
Looking for some RTR turnbuckles to complete another car and 1 rear dog bone to complete another car. If you have extras please let me know.

thanks,
Vince
Sent a PM regarding turnbuckles and ball cups.

Thanks,
JB
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Old 06-24-2012 | 02:15 PM
  #15979  
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Originally Posted by John Bolten
Here is something that makes the AE shocks work better. www.factoryone-rc.com
Awesome product but I feel the pricing is off. Just my opinion.
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Old 06-24-2012 | 02:25 PM
  #15980  
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Originally Posted by 1Fastpede
Awesome product but I feel the pricing is off. Just my opinion.
I just ordered a set for my b4.1. ill let everyone know how much i like them
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Old 06-24-2012 | 03:17 PM
  #15981  
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Originally Posted by f41stryker
Thanks chancejeff, I'll look into the avid steering rack. By big bore conversion do you mean just getting some rb5 or 22 shocks? Thanks!!
no you put big bore springs on your v2 shocks. I run the losi springs alot of people are now going to the avid springs i guess they are better. You have to buy different shock collars and springs cups to put these springs on.
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Old 06-24-2012 | 03:41 PM
  #15982  
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OK, I'm just asking here, but do bigger springs on the same dampeners really make that big of a difference? I mean I understand having more fluid volume making a difference, but bigger diameter springs?
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Old 06-24-2012 | 04:27 PM
  #15983  
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The stock bushing has over .030 clearance between the shock shaft and the bushing. This means the seal is supporting the shaft. This means the shaft is supported by the orings alone with makes them do double duty. When you compress the shock at a high rate the shaft wants to move sideways. Because of this the shock compresses the orings to the side and causes minor sticktion. My bushings are made to support the shaft and let the seal do what it was designed to do. Just as in the full size world. If you take a MX shock they do not support the shaft with a seal but a bushing.

The bushings I have are cnc machined out of PTFE Pure Teflon so they are ultra slick. This also adds to the cost but if your going to make it right pick the right material.
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Old 06-24-2012 | 04:49 PM
  #15984  
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Originally Posted by John Bolten
The stock bushing has over .030 clearance between the shock shaft and the bushing. This means the seal is supporting the shaft. This means the shaft is supported by the orings alone with makes them do double duty. When you compress the shock at a high rate the shaft wants to move sideways. Because of this the shock compresses the orings to the side and causes minor sticktion. My bushings are made to support the shaft and let the seal do what it was designed to do. Just as in the full size world. If you take a MX shock they do not support the shaft with a seal but a bushing.

The bushings I have are cnc machined out of PTFE Pure Teflon so they are ultra slick. This also adds to the cost but if your going to make it right pick the right material.
good idea, what is your designed shaft clearance ?
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Old 06-24-2012 | 05:06 PM
  #15985  
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Originally Posted by vw addict
OK, I'm just asking here, but do bigger springs on the same dampeners really make that big of a difference? I mean I understand having more fluid volume making a difference, but bigger diameter springs?
IMO the springs help a lot..... I love them

I let a guy who has a 22 drive my B4.1. He is now selling all his losi's and going to AE
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Old 06-24-2012 | 05:12 PM
  #15986  
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Originally Posted by brent701
IMO the springs help a lot..... I love them
HELP WITH WHAT!!!!!!!!!! Someone tell me, everyone says it's the way to go but no one can describe why!!!! SERIOUSLY JUST TELL ME!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 06-24-2012 | 05:19 PM
  #15987  
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Originally Posted by CTRJ
Pegasus is the track. I asked around the other day, but most of what I was told went over my head. I am pretty new to setups.

The track is dirt and I am running the correct tires for it (Holeshots). Would adding some weight to the chassis help? I tried things like loosening the diff and the slipper clutch but it didn't seem to help. I borrowed a Proline Bulldog wing and it helped quite a bit but I still feel like I am leaving a lot of time on the track with my loose rear end. I am only running a 17.5 and thought I should be able to pin the throttle going down the straight (if I pin it coming out of the corner before it, the rear end comes around.
I've ran there a couple of times lately. You really need to be easy on the throttle, akin to driving a mod weather you're 17.5 or not. It's not uncommon to be 1/3 down the straight before getting to full throttle.

Easy throttle, tip toe corner exits, carry corner speed before the triple. ymmv
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Old 06-24-2012 | 05:22 PM
  #15988  
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Originally Posted by vw addict
HELP WITH WHAT!!!!!!!!!! Someone tell me, everyone says it's the way to go but no one can describe why!!!! SERIOUSLY JUST TELL ME!!!!!!!!!!
I posted why a couple months back. You can find it here.
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Old 06-24-2012 | 05:26 PM
  #15989  
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Thanks, chancejeff. I've seen the ghea conversion on absolutehobby. Think to start out I'l def get the avid steering rack then move on to the new collars.
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Old 06-24-2012 | 05:28 PM
  #15990  
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Originally Posted by f41stryker
Thanks, chancejeff. I've seen the ghea conversion on absolutehobby. Think to start out I'l def get the avid steering rack then move on to the new collars.
I have GHEA collars/22 buckets on my SC10, my 4.1 uses traxxas collars and buckets no problem. And Avid steering.
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