I am having some steering issues myself and looking for some insight as I can't figure it out...

Noticed last night, on a tight 180 left turn, couldn't get the car to hug the inside line. Can't tell if it's a push, but it is a noticably increased turning radius. Entry speed not too high, had to tap the brake to get it to rotate properly. On a right hand 180, the car turns on a dime.

Zero toe
-1/2 camber
Avid rack
EPA matches full lock left and right on car

Wierd diff issue? Need some help...

Was this at wcrc? If so the track is pretty green and maybe not grooved in all the way. Is your diff smooth? If not rebuild it, its pretty much a waste of time if you're driving around with a crunchy diff and trying to tune around it. You could have too much rear grip as well but if its only on a particular corner then it could be something different. Look your car over carefully, could be something as simple as a little too much camber on one side or something could be bent.

Also Check your front wheels at full lock for any binding in the rotation of the tires.

Check your left to right weight balance it might be off by a few grams I know mine was with a HW 120 ESC on one side and the rest on the other . I had to add 14g of weight to the right rear triangle to counter the ESC

a rule of thumb for setting up breaks that i follow is that the tires should not lock up if u go wide open down the straight and pin the breaks. it should almost lock the tires up. also i use about 10% exp on my brakes so if i get in too deep i can hit them a little in the turn to reel it in. youy may also want to check your drag break setting that will give you way to much entry steering

Yes, WCRC. Agreed, conditions were not great last night but others were having no issues that I could tell. Check'd the diff and is still smooth, only about a month old. Maybe overly tight? Just a thought.

Will check the balance, and the entire car again tonight before tomorrows' race day.

You mentioned that the EPA was set the same, does this mean its 120% (for example) left and right or is it set for lock to lock on each side (mine arent the same left to right)? I would tend to think something is binding if you're noticing different handling characteristics. If it works properly on the majority of the track and is only abnormal in one or two areas, I'd suspect the track. I've had similar issues in the past and found the springs wasnt sitting on the cup properly. Last week, one of the Avid springs I was using was sitting in the cup funky, the end of the spring was pushed to the inside of the normal radius and the next coil pushed past it and was sitting on the cup. The caused the car to pull to the right while I was going through the bumps and was turning better one direction than the other. Took me a while to figure out what the hell was causing the problem. Something else to look at is how tight the shocks are on the upper mounts, they should be able to swing freely on the upper pivot ball.

stock setup is fine, rpm is a little tighter...

I really appreciate all the help I've received from this thread, and learning all of the technical setup options that I never knew. It's really helped my dial my car in, and pull off several wins and crazy lap times!

Another question, as always. I notice most of the setup sheets call for 1.5+oz of weight. I run 1/4oz in each triangle, 1/2oz by the servo, and 3/4oz behind the battery. I'm running a pretty hot motor, so I have no issue pulling it.

I would like to get a tad more responsiveness out of my car. By no means is it lazy, but I think my times would benefit if I could add a little bit more twitch to my setup. I have been debating on buying a shorty pack, or removing some weight.

I could remove weight in the rear, and keep 1oz in the front triangles, and under the servo. I believe this would take away some traction, overall weight, and allow the car to change direction quicker.

I think if I bought the shorty pack, it would be pretty drastic in terms of weight change. It would definitely add more steering, and lose traction, but I'm afraid it will be too much running outdoor.

Any suggestions? I've got all this stuff I want to try, but going to the track once every two weeks doesn't allow much.

I would suggest shortening your car's wheelbase, decreasing rear toe (going from -4° to -3.5° total, for example), or moving your battery forward, in that order. I personally like to make the simplest, least-expensive, and most-easily-reversible changes first before going to more in-depth ones.

I recently tried a shorty pack in my B4.1, using three different positions in the tray, and I really can't say I liked it more than a normal pack. The car really didn't seem any better. But, that's just my opinion- you might be faster with one, and enjoy it more. Most of the pros choose the shorty pack, I do know that. But to me, it just seems like it would be a waste of my money. I would suggest that you do what I did, and borrow one off a friend to see how you like it.

Hey I am thinking about buying the worlds car, do you guys think it would be worth it for me if I just have a RTR buggy right now..

I know it will help, but anothe concern of mine is how much will it boost my value.. I dont want to pay $250 for a car then not get at leaste 180 back if you know what I mean.. What would be the value of this setup:

B4.1 WC (and then with RTR)
EXI 226 Servo
No remote or receiver
17.5 Blastic w/ Novak Speed 2s GTB
5sets of rears
2 sets of front tires.

Hideeho
Hunter, if your going to be @ the warehouse this Saturday, I just got a shorty to give it a try (needed another lipo any way, so what the heck ). Catch me in the morning practice & I'll let you give it a try. I picked up a t4.1 chassis for dirt cheap, so I'm going to be trying +15 w/ regular & shorty to see if I like it.

I too race at WC and had the same issue with my Worlds Car. Try 2 things...negative 2 degrees of rear camber- this will help it corner fast but take away some straight away traction. Also you can try adding one washer under the rear inner ball stud. This will change the roll center slightly and break the rear end loose a bit.

I am pretty sure less weight makes the car rotate faster, I like the 2.5 degree toe block when I have a lot of bight, it makes a faster car. I have not tried with c hub setup tho but I am waiting for the avid hub tower.

Stiffer rear spring also. With avid and shorty I run yellow front white rear. With a full it would prob be yellow or red around.

ive ran the shorty and the full length pack. the shorty makes the car more agile and way more agressive imo. the long pack is way better on a track that is bumpy,it settles the car through the ruff stuff. also you get less slap with the shorty. so really it depends on the track your running its a good expensive tuning option for someone like me wio runs quite a few different tracks.

Well you could try some inline spindles, if you do this you need to move that spacer in the caster block in the front.
You could remove a washer from the front camber link to lower it, this will make it a tad more responsive under initial turn in but less steering mid to exit.
If you take some weight out of the front it should make it turn in harder but may push on power, so if you have any aluminum parts up front like the bulkhead mainly or brace for the arms if so replace them with the plastic parts. Or remove some lead from the front of the car.
You could try just a touch of toe-out, even if its not visible just a 1/4 turn on the steering turnbuckles could be noticeable.
Maybe try some softer front foam like open cell, not sure what you are using right now.
I have other ideas but i will spare you