Will try AGAIN, I fellow threads & videos to the"T" but will try again. This last rebuild it sounded like the slipper was loose and I kept tightening it down until it was all the way tight ........mistake it was the diff that was loose, maybe I screwed it up doing that. I don't know.... it can't be rocket science to get this right , I have watched each detail of the rebuild but no luck ,,,,will try again.
Thanks Guys !

There's a huge difference in the sound that the two make. The slipper slipping sounds like just the motor winding up. Its a high pitched, relatively smooth sound. The diff slipping (or barking as some folks call it) is obnoxious, grating, almost chattering sound.

Sounds like a line from a dos equis commercial

haha it does

I dont normaly crash my cars ....but when i do its bad !! Lol!!!

Yep, that what was so strange, sure sounded like a slipping clutch, so I kept tightening it down until it would not tighted any more and it still sounded like it was slipping, so I readjusted it back to a normal setting and tightened the ball diff some and the slipping sound got much better but it is "gritty" I'm sure when I take it apart the rings are worn and I guess the balls . No way to check the ball is there ??? I'm baffled

Hello all,

Thanks for all the information I've already read. This single thread has helped me more than all the other research I've done since picking up my T4.1 last week

Many years ago (I'm guessing 8), I was heavily into RC racing. Locally, we only had indoor carpet and outdoor asphalt road and oval courses. I always wanted to get into off-road, but there just wasn't anything around worth pursuing it for. Since then, there has been a local gorgeous indoor track built. I decided to get back into it...but man, things have changed!!

At that time, 3200 mAh NiMH batteries were just coming out and Trinity's Monster motor was the controversial topic of discussion. Back then, I was heavily into getting every last bit of performance out of my car and electronics that I could. I turned my comms, re-worked brushes, dyno'd the motors, etc. I'd spend HOURS during the week just so I could race for an hour on the week-end lol. But, that was the part I enjoyed. I was maybe just above average for driver skill, but my cars were second to none. I ended up winning several points series, but only because I was consitent.

So here I am, back...and a newb all over again. I decided to go with the T4.1 RTR since I know nothing of brushless, Lipo, 2.4ghz, etc. I've already tore the truck down, glued the servo saver (man, that thing was as loose as any I've ever seen), polished all the joints and ball studs. Reading here, I will pick up softer compound tires and heavier springs for the rear. I have a decent charger (Lipo compatible) but grabbed two NiMH batteries. My first race is Friday and again, I want the truck as ready as possible. Is it worth picking up 2-cell Lipo batteries ahead of time? I don't want to win this first race, but I want to be competitive as possible.

Damn, that was a lot of text...sorry.

Anyway, good to be back. I love the excitement of prepping the car/truck and looking forward to the next race

Larger bearings and out drives in trans...different trans cases. Aluminum rear hubs with larger outer bearing and v2 slipper spring/washer........where the older version has it over the .1 IMO is its all carbon where the .1 is composit plastic. In FT editions. Carbon is stiffer and lighter but is more brittle.
Hope this helps

I did the same thing you did. Took a hiatus from the sport while the kids grew up a bit. I tried to get back into it with brushed motors and NiMh packs. I didn't get completely blown away because of that but I did spend a lot more time fartin' around with the brushed motors and batteries than everyone else. I would highly recommend you buy a couple of lipos for this weekend. They will allow you to better utilize your practice time. Don't break the bank for lipos. You can get good lipos for not a ton of money. http://www.bigsquidrc.com/lipo-batte...-4-now-online/

With all the power you can make with a nice brushless system, the extra weight and flex just helps make traction!

HPI has these wheels that come with universal adapters. Would these wheels fit a t4.1?

Here's the link...
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...dapter-Black-2

There is always hp/Weight ratio thing i add weight strategically just like everyone else. I have always run a carbon chassy with varying results..lol

For the rears yes....although I've never have tried them

bds81175, thank you for the reply. I'll pick up a decent Lipo pack this week and keep the NiMH packs for practice, etc. To be honest, I am having fun researching all the new technology. I look forward to first hand experience with Lipo batteries

I spent a good 6 hours going through the truck after an hour or so of "driveway racing". I noticed a few things that may help other new owners...first, on the steering rack, the left ball nut was mounted in the front, the right ball nut was mounted in the back. The steering was sloppy at best, but after going through it, it seems to be pretty solid now. Also, as is the case with most RTR kits, the supplied tools are not meant for a complete tear down. They appear to be too soft for the tight screws. I ran out to HobbyTown and got a decent tool kit.

I washed out the diff and rebuilt it. It was interesting playing with the gear diff for the first time, but I will likely change out to a ball diff. Over-all, the mechanical components seem to be of good quality...I was especially impressed with the bearings

I ordered a replacement chassis the other day and the one I got was made from the old plastic... Does anyone know of a retailer that carries the new plastic chassis or am I stuck ordering something on fleabay?