I would use this gearing chart:

http://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/_top_speed.html

Then from there I would settle on a setup. Personally, when you are looking for the speeds you are, it may be hard to get one motor to do all that as track speeds will be quite different that all out drag runs.

For ESCs, and I am really liking the Speed Passion GT2.0 Pro right now. Strong enough that it can handle SCT 4x4 without a BEC yet reasonably sized. Good price right now too at $107 I believe.

They also got a good sale going on with there V3.0 motors, $60 for a new motor.

There's been 3 different pad materials over the years for the b4/t4. They've all been the same part number, just running changes/updates to the material. First there was yellow then white now this gold-ish/yellow we have now.

Also add T4 front axles to the list. They are wider. The SC10 shares front axles with the B4 which are narrower.

Then I have the wrong front axles on my truck lol! I got the hd axles cause I like the no slop fit. Guess I'll have to pick up the proper T4 axles. Thanks for the info

never mind. I read that wrong

That's correct. I didn't even think about that.,
I converted my SC10 RS to a T4.1 and had to buy new axles cause RS's has Hex....

Hope someone can help me I am on my THIRD diff rebuild in 2 weeks, what am I doing wrong ????
I have followed the very well written Thread on this site on setting up the diff but I am just having NO LUCK .
The diff is butter smooth after I install it but I can just drive it around in circles in the living room and already it sounds "gritty", and after a day out sounds real gritty. I super CLEAN everything when doing the rebuild but I am stumped. I know not to tighten down the adjustment and flat spot the balls in fact on the last rebuild I left it just a slight bit loose hoping not to damage the balls or rings.
These are the parts I am using am I using POOR parts, any ideas ???
TA Black Grease #6588 for the small rings and balls.
MIP # 9131 Rebuild kit
MIP # 1006 Carbide Ball Diff Lube (I don't believe I am using Carbide balls but MIP say this lube is good for all diffs)
Any ideas ???
THANKS

Uuuummmmm.... Can you please re-read my post.

I said AXLES not A ARMS

I'm not a source of misinformation like 50% of people on here.

There are two ways you can damage the diff right out of the shoot: overtightening or undertightening. If the diff chatters under acceleration that is a BAD thing. It will lay waste to the thrust washers and diff washers in a heart beat. That will be from the diff being too loose and the slipper too tight. Wish I could watch you rebuild the thing in person. Got anyone around you that would be willing to watch over your shoulder while you rebuild it? The thrust assembly is a big part of the grittiness. Don't neglect the thrust assembly when working on the diff. Hope this helps.

Yes I read it again and changes it. it was my bad. No need to try to attack... it was a mistake. (not knowing if you are throwing that 50% BS at me or not)

I was getting a lot of questions about diff building and rebuilding, sanding diff/thrust rings. Setting the diff and slipper. So I posted a thread with pictures in RC Short Course forums that will walk people through it and help.
http://www.rcshortcourse.com/forum/t...fect-diff.html

I realize RC Tech has a simular thread, but sometimes more options can be helpfull.

No it wasn't at you. I just get tired of reading tons of bad or false advice on here. I don't post often but when I do... it's right.

Just finished the rebuild with filling the diff to the crossbars and it worked perfectly. I used Losi 3000ct diff oil for this one, but I think I'll go to 5000 on the next. Thanks for the help with this.

Thay need to come out with a T44.1. I would be all over that!! 4X4 ST

I like that ideal maybe based off the sc10 4+4 or b44 lol!

cant seem to find it anywhere,, what other than the shocks are different from the T4 and T4.1?
thank you in advance