07Forester

iTrader: (10)

So, i've got two issues i'm running into.

Problem one, the tail seems to want to swing out very quickly under braking while turning wheels. Literally coming off the front straight into a right hand 180 it will almost spin out completely.

Problem two, car pushes a LOT under mildish power in corners.

Any help would be awesome.

07Forester

iTrader: (10)

I too bought the RTR kit. as of now i've spent MORE upgrading the rtr kit than buying a worlds car + electronics.

I now have both car in worlds form, one being mod, the other being blinky.

D-Rek07

iTrader: (1)

I'm gonna be perfectly honest. I had the rtr and raced it for about a year before I upgraded anything major except tires(these were titanium turnbuckles only b/c I was bending the stock ones). Most of these guys say, "You have to have all the best parts to go fast." They think every little change will make the car handle completely different. I heard one guy say, "you won't go fast unless you have the +8 chassis" Another guy said, "Oh your wing broke off, You better pull it off because it won't work it if isn't on there" My point is that a new driver won't be able to notice these changes. Just run it and have fun. Don't worry about pouring a bunch of money in it, yet. So run the rtr until you get better. Then if you feel like you want a little more tuning options get the factory team. I'm sorry if this is a rant but some people take these toy cars a too seriously.

T-BirdJunkie

iTrader: (10)

Listen to this cat.
Yes, replacing it with the Worlds kit.
Any upgrades you do make to the car, don't buy anything that comes on the Worlds car. Do the BB springs, get some shock oils...if you're just now starting racing, buying spare caster blocks, arms, tires, and bulkheads will be a better investment until you learn to drive. No modifications until you get some real track time under your belt will help. Aside from tires. And you can use the tires on your Worlds car too

There's no shame in cutting your teeth racing with a stock RTR. Run the snot out of it. Make some mistakes. Play with roll centers and learn chassis tuning by trial and error. Do a lot of reading.

All of these will do you way more good than buying upgrades.

Bob Barry

iTrader: (22)

Im absolutely sure it will cost you way too much to make it the same as a worlds car

jf+

iTrader: (1)

I did the same. I think if you're brand new to the RC hobby, buying a RTR is perfectly fine. I needed time and experience to learn about motors and servos and ESCs and shocks and... without diving in with *something*, I'd still be sitting on the sidelines. Now I see gently run, almost-RTR worlds setups for sale and it kills me... but if I hadn't picked up the hobby first, with my RTR, I wouldn't be able to distinguish fact from crap.

Enjoy your RTR, it really is a great car. Buy the RPM front bumper, spare ball cups and arms, maybe upgrade the servo (1258tg!), and focus on driving and using the right tires for the track conditions, and you will be very happy. You don't actually need a new motor/esc. The stock one can take you far. I've seen good drivers post great times with my car. So it's not about the parts, it's about your skill. Once you get good enough to upgrade, you'll know. Don't do it because the kit is prettier. Don't do it until you're in the top 1/3 of racers at your track.

I'm not close to there yet, and my wallet has suffered by chasing after upgrades and keeping up with the Joneses, when really all I needed was more driving experience. Besides, if you're anything like me, you'll blow through plenty of cash just breaking stuff.

socalrc

Having just picked up a used rtr b4.1 rtr brushless, what would be the first factory team upgrades that you guys would recomend for racing? Shocks/ factory team carbon kit? I appreciate your guys experience and input.

Jake S

iTrader: (67)

just like what has JUST been said... your better off saving your money, then getting a factory team roller, then you can just pull your rtr electronics out and use those till you can upgrade those.

LOSI123

iTrader: (63)

Can anyone confirm what the rear total shock shaft length is?

manual says 1.02" but mine look more like 1.7" that came with my kit

and the rear shock body length also, I think I might have the wrong shocks put in the box maybe

NYC Diesel

iTrader: (1)

yea listen to these guys. I have spent 200$ making my RTR a worlds, I'm still a few parts short and for only 50$ more I could of just a bought a worlds kit... I think a ball diff and the AE spring kit (50$ total) are essential upgrades to an RTR, the stock gear diff doesn't lay down the power properly and changing the springs to brown/green was a cheap, noticeable upgrade.

Just1More

iTrader: (11)

Since they asked and have heard that it's best to buy a FT kit, here's what i know. I wouldn't buy the carbon kit, you're overpaying for parts like the chassis(non 8mm) that you won't use. I would start with rebuilding your shocks(new O rings and file down the big center spacer a little if they need it). Check for broken/worn parts(shock ends, A arms, pivot blocks, etc..)If your dogbone axles are worn upgrade to CVA's and do a complete ball diff at the same time with carbide main balls and ceramic thrust balls. Things like measuring shocks to keep them exactly the same left to right come into play also. The 8mm chassis is nice but i'm convinced the stock chassis won't kill your lap times, lots of guy are fast with the stock chassis. Maybe throw in the FT ballast weight or use 3 7g lead weight behind the toe block. Find a good setup and with that comes tires and foams, foams wear out before the tire does in many cases, i've just been getting into replacing foams in half worn tires. Also if you have a good servo(I recommend the XP or ACE 1015, Savox work well also) with metal gears then glue your servo saver or buy the Avid or GPM rack, it will be much more precise steering wise. Invest time looking over your buggy, finding a very flat area to get the camber and ride height set, etc.. If you don't have 30deg caster blocks those are a cheap tuning option also, Good luck! Research is under-rated these days, i read hours every week on my B4.1 and racing in general, always something new to learn.

Just1More

iTrader: (11)

The manual is correct, if you're in doubt i would mock-up a shock and check up/down travel. If you received T4 or SC10 rear shocks it will be obviously too long. The chassis should be able to slap the ground before the suspension reaches the end of it's up travel.

LOSI123

iTrader: (63)

my whole shock shaft is about 1.7 inch approx measuring them in shocks as i don't want to pull them apart)

once assembled and fully extended the amount of shock shaft showing (that you can see) is approx 1.02 inch.

I will take a pick of the droop on the car as per worlds setup sheet, 2 limiters in shock and inner hole on arm and inner hole on tower for mounting, let me know if the droop looks ok in the pic

my length of rear shock with 2 limiters installed is 91mm, this is from center of bottom cap head screw to center of top button head screw that mount the shocks.

Chassis hits the ground, just


Fully extended Front shocks center of screw to center of screw are 77mm
Rear shocks are" " 91mm

can anyone confirm if these lengths are normal

Just1More

iTrader: (11)

I don't have digital calipers with me or i'd measure mine. Can you push down on the car and bottom out the chassis, while still having a little room to lift a tire off the surface? Sounds like you have the right shocks though, I wouldn't worry about it

LOSI123

iTrader: (63)

Brothers



The b4.1 with a 45gram servo and 6200/60C lipo & no lead weights turned out to be 1531grams