Ultimately, the front end is diving pretty good when the car leaves the ground. I assumed it is an excessive rebound issue in the rear shocks, but I suppose it might be linked to anti-dive angle as well.

is it
Not landing right the more droop the better
And easier it
Handles the landing.. Is it not flying straight?

It literally lawn darts over every jump, stuffing the front end in the dirt and then flipping end over end.

Not flying straight at all.

I have a punisher body coming next week from my painter. I have noticed that it seems to give more steering, I've ran it before, I changed my paint scheme when I went back to AE from my Kyosho rides. I usually switch between the punisher or the high flow...depending on what track I'm at. Sometimes I'm kinda over the look of the cab forward bodies though...so i revert back to a "regular" buggy style body.

that could be to much drag break after letting off the throttle the
Drag kicks in slowing your Motor forcing the front end down.. Also make sure your drive train is rolling smooth and free.. Some motors have more natural drag than others.. Or simply pull the throttle a lil bit after taking off a jump.. Also check your radio setting
U might have the brake trim turned up?

that was exactly my prob I didn't like the looks of the cab forwards but after realizing how bad the car handles between the 2 bodies it's a no brainer for
Me..

Drag brake is turned off completely on the ESC. I will have to check the radio settings.

The drivetrain rolls smooth, however, it is brand new. Maybe a few hours on it will help?

I was hitting the throttle after take off to avoid the dive but didnt seem to help very much.

You could also check your shock lengths, front & rear, make sure they are even length & then make sure your droop screws are even, front right & left side, then rear right & left sides.

If your throttling in the air and the front end is not lifting. Id double check your drive train to make sure every thing is free. Also perhaps someone watch the car as you do this and see if one wheel locks in the air.

Disengaged pinion from spur gear and rolled the car on flat surface - no resistance at all.

So i just took apart my center diff so i can try and seal it up so it wont leak, So i got a new spur, ( 48t ) and installed it with new diff housing, i sanded down the housing a bit and greased the gasket on both sides. i also replaced all the diff o rings, i really hope this fixes the issues with my center diff leaking.

Let us know how it goes...I'm doing the same thing this week

Will do !!! Might be a couple days before i get to run it do but i will defenetly let you all know.

I don't know man, 4wd is so easy to manipulate in the air. I'd say it's gotta be your driving. Certain jumps have different lips to them and require different jumping techniques.

Let's say you're constant throttle from hitting, leaving, and landing the jump and it still lawn darts.. Raise the front up 1-1.5mm

I had the same issue in the beginning. So my first instinct was to try a softer spring in the rear, but the car was to responsive. This weekend I tried a different setup. I'm running on a well watered clay track.

5-5-3 in the diffs.
50wt. in front
37.5wt. in rear
silver springs front and rear
sway bars (yellow)
droop screws down about 2mm (this is approximate, I'm going off memory)
JConcepts Barcodes are a great tire when the track dries out.

This setup worked pretty good. The nose didn't dive in the air, as a matter of fact I had to tap the brake to bring the nose down at times. With the thicker shock oil it didn't pick up as much mud under the lower arms by the droop screws. I also extended the wheelbase by the 2mm spacer in the rear. The car tracked straight and was very responsive in the corners.

My suggestion: learn to drive the car in its stock setup and then make minor changes to the car a little at a time. This way you can see how the car reacts.