Another member joining the club! Should have my 8.2e soon and I can't wait!!


Next I'll be ordering some spares. I'll be running a Tekin RX8/1900kv, Hitec 7955. Anyone suggest any particular parts etc to pick up?

Welcome bro! I just got back into my rc8be, converted it to a rc8.2...ya I did it the stupid expensive way part by part. Lmk if you have any questions, this time I can help you out .

well my RC8.2E is built ,my kit had a bad shock collar ring ,quick email and the part was sent so now its ready for the esc and motor combo ,the radio is a spektrum dx3r with a jr z9100s servo . i am thinking of a tekin 1900 with a 4s set up , cant wait ti finish and test it out at my local track :
big thanks to chris j at associated for getting the shock collar part sent to me asap

Thanks alot guys. I'm sure most of you know me from the sc10 4x4.

This will be my summer project. Short course will take even stance with 1/8 buggy this year. I planned originally to expand what little tracks we have here by being able to drive "all of them".

Waiting on my powerhouse and paint.


I got the B-plate, but i'm running Box stock setup for some "learning". I hate adding the good stuff before I try the truck so I "feel" the changes. A Baseline if you will.

Looking to run the bulldog body, does pretty much any 4s battery fit in or do you have to run a soft pack??

Check the pic on the last page (link) if you run a hard case you need to trim the body as shown in the pic.

I usually run a soft pack lipo, I hate cutting out that little corner of the body for hard packs. I think the only body you can run w/o cutting that corner out is the jconcepts hi-flow body. The air inlet is raised high enough for it to work.

So will the rc8 bodies work on the .2???

Since some are asking about bodies, I have been running this one and it fits a big hardcase pack without anything special being done. I like it cuz its different too.

http://www.avidrc.com/product/18/ftw...00008-ftw.html


sorry for the crappy cell phone pic...

Technically yes, the only difference is 3mm between both buggies. What I do is use the front body mount hole like normal and I slot (oval) the rear body mount hole. It's a good idea to leave a liitle room in front & behind the body mount hole to allow for chassis flex. I also use a lexan body mount washer in the rear, this helps to keep good fitment on the body mount & I haven't seen it crack yet! Also some people use Velcro in the rear, they just shave off the body mount nub.

Thanks for the reminder of the FTW bodies...I totally forgot about those!

Just finished mine and got it running today. Seem to be having issues with rear rebound. Front end seems to dive pretty good off most jumps. Right now everything is factory team. I loosened up the spring tension on the rear shocks a bit but didn't seem to help much. I am running the Tekin RX8 ESC and I have turned off my drag brake. Rear anti-dive is set to factory specs in the manual, 2-dot down on the 'C' plate, I think that is 2 degrees.

Anyhow, looking for some aide here in getting this thing to handle the jumps better.

Any ideas?

-BT

With the stickers!!

The car doesn't handle or react as well with the hi flow.. The punisher or bulldog make a huge difference on how the car drives!! I trimmed a smidge in the pics where the vent start and the rear and fits like a glove

not sure what your asking
What exactly is it doing in the rear?