After-run procedures
#1
Thread Starter
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 55
From: Pennsylvania
I just finished my engine break-in, and I was just wondering what kinds of after-run procedures i should try. What kind of after run oil? where to insert the after run oil? is air filter oil necessary? Also, I see these little black specs all over my engine, fuel tank, exhaust pipe, and and fuel lines. What are these?Please help!!!!!

#3
You can buy after run at your hobby story or you can use wd40 don't use if you have a filled crank ie puddy in the crank. Make sure you blow air on your glow plug also clean your filter before take both items out. 5-7 drops of after run in both openings or a few sprays then place on bump box give it a few whirls. Put back plug and filter if filter dirty clean with dish soap add filter oil install. Go to YouTube
#4
I never let the engine sit for more than about 3 days without completely tearing it down. I take it out of the car, remove the clutch, airfilter, and pipe, cap the intake and exhaust ports along with the fuel inlet, give the outside of the engine a good spraying off with a nitrowash type spray cleaner. Then I completely tear the engine apart (I don't remove the bearings unless I'm replacing them), spray off every part to remove any fuel residue(which causes rust), inspect every part, coat all parts with Mugen engine maintainence oil(or similar), and reassemble the engine.
This does several things for me; I get use to tearing down engines, I can see any abnormal wear before it destroys the engine, and it gives me a good look at the burn pattern that clues me in as to my engine tune. I'm certainly no engine expert, but this has been working for me.
My 2 cents
This does several things for me; I get use to tearing down engines, I can see any abnormal wear before it destroys the engine, and it gives me a good look at the burn pattern that clues me in as to my engine tune. I'm certainly no engine expert, but this has been working for me.
My 2 cents
#5
You can buy after run at your hobby story or you can use wd40 don't use if you have a filled crank ie puddy in the crank. Make sure you blow air on your glow plug also clean your filter before take both items out. 5-7 drops of after run in both openings or a few sprays then place on bump box give it a few whirls. Put back plug and filter if filter dirty clean with dish soap add filter oil install. Go to YouTube
. I'm sure you have great susses with your way of maintaning your engines.I would NEVER use WD40 or similar products inside an engine. WD40 can loosen carbon buildup and other small particles. When you start the engine next time, those particles can ruin the P/S when they are flushed through the engine...
This is the way I maintain my engines after EVERY raceday:
Get yourself a 5ml disposable syringe and put a 3 cm piece of fuel line on it. Use a 3 mm screw on the end of the tube when you don't use the syringe.
Drive the car to the pit. At idlespeed you take off the fuel line on the carburator (don't touch anything hot or rotating...
). After a few seconds the engine will stop.Try restart the engine several times untill you can't hear any ignition.
With the syringe and WOT add 1/2 - 3/4 ml AFO through the inlet nipple. Turn the engine for approx. 5 seconds on the starterbox with WOT.
Once again add 1/2 - 3/4 ml of ARO and turn the engine again.
No need to take out the plug and airfilter with the risk of getting dirt inside the engine and oil on the outside of the cooling head.
If you take off the backplate, you'll see a nice layer of oil allover the inside of the engine. No rust and no hydro lock next time you start the engine.
Life is simple
#6
If you use a quality, it's not necessary to use ARO after every raceday. I only use ARO when my car is sitting on the shelf for more than a month.
I take my engine apart every now and then to inspect it and so far I have never seen any rust in my engines.
The fuels I have been using is RB and Merlin expert with 25% nitro.
I take my engine apart every now and then to inspect it and so far I have never seen any rust in my engines.
The fuels I have been using is RB and Merlin expert with 25% nitro.
#7
If you use a quality, it's not necessary to use ARO after every raceday. I only use ARO when my car is sitting on the shelf for more than a month.
I take my engine apart every now and then to inspect it and so far I have never seen any rust in my engines.
The fuels I have been using is RB and Merlin expert with 25% nitro.
I take my engine apart every now and then to inspect it and so far I have never seen any rust in my engines.
The fuels I have been using is RB and Merlin expert with 25% nitro.
#8
Tech Adept
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 189
From: norway
#10
Tech Fanatic
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 805
All kidding aside, two times have I seen corrosion in my engines, both times due to bad fuel. But I know that living close to a coast can be a bad thing when it comes to corrosion.
So "Lille-bror", Denmark is no good place to live, you have no inland!
#11
I never use ARO, but then we are so poor here in Sweden that we canīt afford to run our engines.
All kidding aside, two times have I seen corrosion in my engines, both times due to bad fuel. But I know that living close to a coast can be a bad thing when it comes to corrosion.
So "Lille-bror", Denmark is no good place to live, you have no inland!
All kidding aside, two times have I seen corrosion in my engines, both times due to bad fuel. But I know that living close to a coast can be a bad thing when it comes to corrosion.
So "Lille-bror", Denmark is no good place to live, you have no inland!

Hehe. Yep, the maximum distance from ANY place in Denmark to the open sea is only 50 km





