RC10B4.1 FT/WC
01-24-2012 | 01:03 PM
Tech Master
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Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,076
From: SoCal - Chillin in the LBC
01-24-2012 | 01:19 PM
Edit: mine took 24 mins, WTH???!!! j/k
Last edited by Asharus; 01-24-2012 at 01:40 PM.
01-24-2012 | 01:52 PM
01-24-2012 | 01:55 PM
Just follow AE instructions, it stays captive between the transmission and the toe block. If you are concerned about it rattling, you can always add a small piece of double side tape. I've never heard mine vibrate.
01-24-2012 | 02:12 PM
Thanx for the replies... i didnt buy the AE part, just looking at it I couldnt see how it was held in place other than captive/tape and the info on the website was vague. Im also still using original hingepin mounts and rear suspension plate... so didnt know if it was 'keyed' or something for the newer parts.
Im gonna make my own out of solder (very similar to how i used to make them for the B2/B3 front bulkhead). After looking at the AE part and its only 17 grams i can definitely hit that with solder.
Im gonna make my own out of solder (very similar to how i used to make them for the B2/B3 front bulkhead). After looking at the AE part and its only 17 grams i can definitely hit that with solder.
01-24-2012 | 02:24 PM
I can't say I am familiar with the u-brace mod. I just wasn't sure if I would still use the same position as if it wasn't even there.
01-24-2012 | 02:33 PM
Thanx for the replies... i didnt buy the AE part, just looking at it I couldnt see how it was held in place other than captive/tape and the info on the website was vague. Im also still using original hingepin mounts and rear suspension plate... so didnt know if it was 'keyed' or something for the newer parts.
Im gonna make my own out of solder (very similar to how i used to make them for the B2/B3 front bulkhead). After looking at the AE part and its only 17 grams i can definitely hit that with solder.
Im gonna make my own out of solder (very similar to how i used to make them for the B2/B3 front bulkhead). After looking at the AE part and its only 17 grams i can definitely hit that with solder.
01-24-2012 | 02:52 PM
TK
01-24-2012 | 02:58 PM
If I am understanding how he is wording it
He is cutting the upper two parts of this brace #9564 where the Ball cup studs go in, to lower the camber link
Upper corners if that brace in the pic
Not cutting but shaving down flat to match the rest of the brace. Lowers the link about 2.1mm
I did this on my SC10 and it is working well. It really works well if you have FT rear blue hubs and the Carbon fiber hub towers. which lower it 2mm at the hubs
He is cutting the upper two parts of this brace #9564 where the Ball cup studs go in, to lower the camber link
Upper corners if that brace in the pic
Not cutting but shaving down flat to match the rest of the brace. Lowers the link about 2.1mm
I did this on my SC10 and it is working well. It really works well if you have FT rear blue hubs and the Carbon fiber hub towers. which lower it 2mm at the hubs
If you buy the optional ASC9873 hub tower, there is an instructional sheet included with it. It recommends using either zero washers with the standard silver ball stud, or to achieve an even higher roll center, shaving off the added material where the ball studs thread in. As mentioned, when the car first came out, the U brace was flat all the way across. Associated later added the .060" of material so the ball stud could thread into more material, and still achieve the two washers on the inside of the camber link effect.
The optional towers lower the roll center 2mm on the hub, and you don't HAVE to shave down the U brace when using these towers, I have seen/tried using the towers with a new standard U brace that has that added material. It just gives you the opportunity to really fine-tune and get a feel for your setup, my favorite part of racing!!
Hope this helps.
The optional towers lower the roll center 2mm on the hub, and you don't HAVE to shave down the U brace when using these towers, I have seen/tried using the towers with a new standard U brace that has that added material. It just gives you the opportunity to really fine-tune and get a feel for your setup, my favorite part of racing!!
Hope this helps.
01-24-2012 | 03:35 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
If you have a set of C towers (the carbon fiber one) and a set of A, you can hold them both up sandwiched together so that the bottom mounting holes match up. Then look through the ball stud holes and you will see that they are lower than the A.
01-24-2012 | 03:49 PM
Bob did you get a chance to run the spring comparison back to back. Just curious.
Guys I need a quick refresher. When running the two hole c hubs I lower the bump steer a shim compared to the three hole correct?
Guys I need a quick refresher. When running the two hole c hubs I lower the bump steer a shim compared to the three hole correct?
01-24-2012 | 04:05 PM
Used to use a B2/B3 front bulkhead and fill it with cut solder and heated it till it was slam full. Then cut the bulkhead off after the solder cooled, clean up the weight with a dremel and use motor spray to clean off any residual flux. Then you could just drop the weight in a new bulkhead or take it out whenever you wanted. It was close to 2oz... lol