RC10B4.1 FT/WC
01-11-2012 | 06:49 AM
#9646
Tech Master
iTrader: (39)
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,293
From: Henderson, NV
I just swapped out my rcshox pistons for rpm reds. Personally, I like the fit of the rpm pistons better. What I've noticed is that my car is the same as everyone else's until the track gets rough. At that point I can keep more consistent lap times, where the other guys are slowing because they're bouncing around more.
Who wants to talk springs and shock pistons? I'll start with a couple questions..
1- Which characteristics does going to a stiffer or softer rear spring change? same with the front. I've been toying with rear springs to add or remove steering, rear end is almost always controllable. I tried yellow BB losi rear and orange front, ended up with silver losi front and kyosho dark blue rear. The losi BB pink rear seemed too stiff, i went to middle on the rear shock tower with the kyosho dark blue to stiffen them up also.
2-Shock pistons. Anyone running the RCshox 2 stage pistons? i'm ay 27.5f and 32.5R(yes heavier in rear..for now) with them, it's the most forgiving setup i've ran yet, but still not fast enough to finish in the top 3(my lack of driving skills aside
).
My "local" track is medium traction moist red clay, has more grip than any other clay track i've ran. The fast guys have very basic setups, green springs rear and brown front, etc...I'm trying to get an edge here but with the track being almost 2 hours away, weekends are my only practice time...I usually make a couple changes before going to the track again and struggle to feel ready for the main. Thanks for the help guys.
1- Which characteristics does going to a stiffer or softer rear spring change? same with the front. I've been toying with rear springs to add or remove steering, rear end is almost always controllable. I tried yellow BB losi rear and orange front, ended up with silver losi front and kyosho dark blue rear. The losi BB pink rear seemed too stiff, i went to middle on the rear shock tower with the kyosho dark blue to stiffen them up also.
2-Shock pistons. Anyone running the RCshox 2 stage pistons? i'm ay 27.5f and 32.5R(yes heavier in rear..for now) with them, it's the most forgiving setup i've ran yet, but still not fast enough to finish in the top 3(my lack of driving skills aside
).My "local" track is medium traction moist red clay, has more grip than any other clay track i've ran. The fast guys have very basic setups, green springs rear and brown front, etc...I'm trying to get an edge here but with the track being almost 2 hours away, weekends are my only practice time...I usually make a couple changes before going to the track again and struggle to feel ready for the main. Thanks for the help guys.
01-11-2012 | 06:58 AM
#9647
edit: damn just realized the sc10 rear tower is a different p/n, lol
01-11-2012 | 07:06 AM
#9648
Tech Regular
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 256
From: So Cal
I'm sorry to back to it but I didn't quite understand the spacer, o-ring combination. If I use the white spacer and these o-rings http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/117/3464/=fr5ctv #90025k123, will that work?
01-11-2012 | 07:29 AM
#9649
01-11-2012 | 07:49 AM
#9650
For you guys on high bite smooth tracks you can try this in your shocks...
One thin white washer
One oring
One thin white washer
One oring
One thin white washer
One oring
One thin white washer
Washers are from the original shock rebuild kit. I used MIP orings then but AE sized rings are fine. This worked well for me on high bite clay that went from square fuzzies to slicks. Works great helping control chassis roll so you dont need to play with a bar or stiffer springs.
Just some more of my off the wall tuning... lol
One thin white washer
One oring
One thin white washer
One oring
One thin white washer
One oring
One thin white washer
Washers are from the original shock rebuild kit. I used MIP orings then but AE sized rings are fine. This worked well for me on high bite clay that went from square fuzzies to slicks. Works great helping control chassis roll so you dont need to play with a bar or stiffer springs.
Just some more of my off the wall tuning... lol
01-11-2012 | 07:53 AM
#9651
Adding limiters and gonna wheel it...
01-11-2012 | 08:13 AM
#9652
01-11-2012 | 08:51 AM
#9654
Tech Regular
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 272
From: Sacramento,CA USA
For you guys on high bite smooth tracks you can try this in your shocks...
One thin white washer
One oring
One thin white washer
One oring
One thin white washer
One oring
One thin white washer
Washers are from the original shock rebuild kit. I used MIP orings then but AE sized rings are fine. This worked well for me on high bite clay that went from square fuzzies to slicks. Works great helping control chassis roll so you dont need to play with a bar or stiffer springs.
Just some more of my off the wall tuning... lol
One thin white washer
One oring
One thin white washer
One oring
One thin white washer
One oring
One thin white washer
Washers are from the original shock rebuild kit. I used MIP orings then but AE sized rings are fine. This worked well for me on high bite clay that went from square fuzzies to slicks. Works great helping control chassis roll so you dont need to play with a bar or stiffer springs.
Just some more of my off the wall tuning... lol
01-11-2012 | 10:13 AM
#9655
No. Use it to seal the shock shafts. The original shock seals/teflon rebuild kit used to be...
One thin white washer
One oring
One thick white spacer
One oring
One thin white washer
Youre basically replacing the thick white spacer (its a thick black spacer now) with two thin washers and an oring. I used a teflon based grease to lube them up... but Green Slime works just as good.
But because youre adding one more oring to each shock, it grabs the shock shaft a little more and helps to naturally reduce chassis roll leaving you more options with the rest of your setup (no swaybar, different oil/spring combinations, different shock position, roll center, caster, inline axles, etc).
If you do it to just the front shocks, it initially feels like going from a black front spring to a green front spring in smooth corners (removing initial bite/turn in), but jumps like a black spring.
If you do it on low bite/dusty tracks it becomes problematic. The shocks stick quick and you lose all rear grip.
One thin white washer
One oring
One thick white spacer
One oring
One thin white washer
Youre basically replacing the thick white spacer (its a thick black spacer now) with two thin washers and an oring. I used a teflon based grease to lube them up... but Green Slime works just as good.
But because youre adding one more oring to each shock, it grabs the shock shaft a little more and helps to naturally reduce chassis roll leaving you more options with the rest of your setup (no swaybar, different oil/spring combinations, different shock position, roll center, caster, inline axles, etc).
If you do it to just the front shocks, it initially feels like going from a black front spring to a green front spring in smooth corners (removing initial bite/turn in), but jumps like a black spring.
If you do it on low bite/dusty tracks it becomes problematic. The shocks stick quick and you lose all rear grip.
01-11-2012 | 10:27 AM
#9656
Tech Regular
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 310
From: Deerfield Beach Florida
Savox Servos
Put a Savox 1258TG servo in my B4.1 kit a month or so ago. When stearing this thing it glitched and was not smooth. Put a capacitor in place like hobby shop and others recommended. Helped a bit but after a few minutes of running it started again (heat build-up?). Tore out the servo and put the same servo that comes with the RTR B4.1 for about 40 bucks less and it works like a dream.
Why are so many hung up paying for expensive parts that may perform SLIGHTLY better but really perform about the same and more reliable?
Companies marketing of expensive products is amazing.
Anyone have similar experience with so-called better and more expensive parts?
Rick
Why are so many hung up paying for expensive parts that may perform SLIGHTLY better but really perform about the same and more reliable?
Companies marketing of expensive products is amazing.
Anyone have similar experience with so-called better and more expensive parts?
Rick
01-11-2012 | 10:31 AM
#9657
The stock RTR servo is super slow. It may work flawlessly, but speed comes at a price. You need to have solid electronics to power some of the high voltage servos today.
I started with an RTR myself last year, and upgrading the servo to a 1258TG made a huge difference. I upgraded the rest of the electronics along with it, which is probably why I never had issues.
I started with an RTR myself last year, and upgrading the servo to a 1258TG made a huge difference. I upgraded the rest of the electronics along with it, which is probably why I never had issues.
01-11-2012 | 10:42 AM
#9658
The stock RTR servo is super slow. It may work flawlessly, but speed comes at a price. You need to have solid electronics to power some of the high voltage servos today.
I started with an RTR myself last year, and upgrading the servo to a 1258TG made a huge difference. I upgraded the rest of the electronics along with it, which is probably why I never had issues.
I started with an RTR myself last year, and upgrading the servo to a 1258TG made a huge difference. I upgraded the rest of the electronics along with it, which is probably why I never had issues.
01-11-2012 | 10:43 AM
#9659
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
No. Use it to seal the shock shafts. The original shock seals/teflon rebuild kit used to be...
One thin white washer
One oring
One thick white spacer
One oring
One thin white washer
Youre basically replacing the thick white spacer (its a thick black spacer now) with two thin washers and an oring. I used a teflon based grease to lube them up... but Green Slime works just as good.
But because youre adding one more oring to each shock, it grabs the shock shaft a little more and helps to naturally reduce chassis roll leaving you more options with the rest of your setup (no swaybar, different oil/spring combinations, different shock position, roll center, caster, inline axles, etc).
If you do it to just the front shocks, it initially feels like going from a black front spring to a green front spring in smooth corners (removing initial bite/turn in), but jumps like a black spring.
If you do it on low bite/dusty tracks it becomes problematic. The shocks stick quick and you lose all rear grip.
One thin white washer
One oring
One thick white spacer
One oring
One thin white washer
Youre basically replacing the thick white spacer (its a thick black spacer now) with two thin washers and an oring. I used a teflon based grease to lube them up... but Green Slime works just as good.
But because youre adding one more oring to each shock, it grabs the shock shaft a little more and helps to naturally reduce chassis roll leaving you more options with the rest of your setup (no swaybar, different oil/spring combinations, different shock position, roll center, caster, inline axles, etc).
If you do it to just the front shocks, it initially feels like going from a black front spring to a green front spring in smooth corners (removing initial bite/turn in), but jumps like a black spring.
If you do it on low bite/dusty tracks it becomes problematic. The shocks stick quick and you lose all rear grip.
01-11-2012 | 10:59 AM
#9660
I undersstand the theory behind this but I don't know if I agree with it. You are completely changing the characteristics of your shock setup, which will make it impossible for everyone to help when you need it. I mean your shock with 30 wt and 2 hole won't feel like my shock with 30 wt and 2 hole.
Like you said before... its a great place to start and make small adjustments from there. For me though im the guy that will look for a way to optimize something for my tastes. Ill cut up a chassis or mix match parts from other cars till i find something that works for me.
A good case in point is the fact a lot of guys use the k BB shocks or springs. Im sure the first guy that tried it got funky looks for doing it... but you see now its changing the way people build and race their buggies.
Remember Kinwald? Remember when he cut the XXT chassis up and inserted a few mm to lengthen it for more stability? A lot of people were like
The AE +8 isnt a new idea. Its just rehashed 'old school' outside the box racer ideas that work. (BTW, i know the 22 was the first long chassis buggy)
I guess all im saying is dont be afraid to try something that sounds odd. You may stumble on something that gives you an edge over everyone else.
