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Old 01-03-2012 | 05:47 PM
  #91  
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Im shure this has been asked ,is someone making a +8 chassis for the truck ,thnx
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Old 01-03-2012 | 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by blingy
Im shure this has been asked ,is someone making a +8 chassis for the truck ,thnx
no because it wouldnt be legal, the t4 is only 4mm shorter then roar max too.
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Old 01-03-2012 | 07:14 PM
  #93  
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Oh did not know that thanks for the info.
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Old 01-03-2012 | 07:43 PM
  #94  
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Originally Posted by lewis4x4
I drive Kyosho and my RT5 steers on a dime. My son has a T4.1 and we can not get steering in it. What can I do to help him get steering. He has a Savox fast servo and it is not binding up. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance...
If it seems like your having trouble with tight turns and the truck is pushing and making you go wide, here's another thing to check besides the servo saver.

The diff in the car if the diff is to LOCKED Feeling it will cause both the wheels to have a Posi feel and when in a turn the outside wheel is spinning the same speed as the inside wheel which will make the truck not turn sharp and push.

You have to find the right balance with the diff to get the proper traction and turning.

Here's how a proper diff should work in a turn. While turning the inside wheel will spin slower because it doesn't have to travel as far as the outside wheel, The outside wheel has to travel farther and faster then the inside wheel.

So if the diff has more of a Posi feel and there both spinning the same speed it wont handle well turning but you still want it to have enough of a Posi Feel to hook up and get the power to the ground.


Start with 3000ct Losi Diff Silicone if its a gear diff and a high bite track. If its loose and dusty and low traction. I mix 3000ct.and 5000ct to get almost a 4000ct. Anything over 5000ct will make the truck have to much Posi feel and push in turns. I would recommend starting with 3000ct and adjusting your slipper to give you the right balance of traction.

Also playing with the camber links will give you better steering either entering the turn or mid to exit steering which is good, depending how you set them up making them longer or shorter will also make the truck more stable.
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Old 01-03-2012 | 08:42 PM
  #95  
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Originally Posted by namewasdallas
If it seems like your having trouble with tight turns and the truck is pushing and making you go wide, here's another thing to check besides the servo saver.

The diff in the car if the diff is to LOCKED Feeling it will cause both the wheels to have a Posi feel and when in a turn the outside wheel is spinning the same speed as the inside wheel which will make the truck not turn sharp and push.

You have to find the right balance with the diff to get the proper traction and turning.

Here's how a proper diff should work in a turn. While turning the inside wheel will spin slower because it doesn't have to travel as far as the outside wheel, The outside wheel has to travel farther and faster then the inside wheel.

So if the diff has more of a Posi feel and there both spinning the same speed it wont handle well turning but you still want it to have enough of a Posi Feel to hook up and get the power to the ground.


Start with 3000ct Losi Diff Silicone if its a gear diff and a high bite track. If its loose and dusty and low traction. I mix 3000ct.and 5000ct to get almost a 4000ct. Anything over 5000ct will make the truck have to much Posi feel and push in turns. I would recommend starting with 3000ct and adjusting your slipper to give you the right balance of traction.

Also playing with the camber links will give you better steering either entering the turn or mid to exit steering which is good, depending how you set them up making them longer or shorter will also make the truck more stable.
Good advice. I've just ordered a bottle of 3k and 5k fluid to tune my gear diff. I'm intent on bucking the ball diff.
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Old 01-03-2012 | 09:07 PM
  #96  
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Zero deg rear hubs really brings the truck to life!
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Old 01-04-2012 | 10:07 AM
  #97  
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Originally Posted by snaketaco
Zero deg rear hubs really brings the truck to life!
What differences did you feel going from the .5 to the 0?
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Old 01-04-2012 | 01:50 PM
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I'm looking to get bit more side bite from my T4.1. I'm running the factory setup it came with and its pretty fast but I would like a bit more side bit if possible. Running holeshots or double dee's all the way around.

I've read two different things. Making the rear camber links LONGER will increase the side bite. Making the rear camber links SHORTER will increase the side bite. Which one is right?

Thanks
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Old 01-04-2012 | 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by straycat40
I'm looking to get bit more side bite from my T4.1. I'm running the factory setup it came with and its pretty fast but I would like a bit more side bit if possible. Running holeshots or double dee's all the way around.

I've read two different things. Making the rear camber links LONGER will increase the side bite. Making the rear camber links SHORTER will increase the side bite. Which one is right?

Thanks
"Tuning with the Camber Link

Making the Camber Link longer or higher will result in less Camber change during suspension travel, which will increase traction but decrease stability. A shorter Camber Link will result in more Camber change, or a decrease in traction but more stability."

with pics: http://www.competitionx.com/rc-racin...g-camber-link/
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Old 01-04-2012 | 10:36 PM
  #100  
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Hey can anyone list the parts needed to change my sc10 to a t4.1. I know the chassis is different, and I need the body mounts, but can't remember what else is needed.
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Old 01-04-2012 | 10:59 PM
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Chassis, battery strap, body mounts front and rear, wheels and tires and a front bumper. depending on which kit you are converting(sc10rs) you might need rear axle spacer and you might need front axles assembles. I havnt seen a hex wheel for a stadium truck yet. I am planning on converting my sc10rs to a t4 soon.
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Old 01-04-2012 | 11:56 PM
  #102  
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[QUOTE=Hinecken;10122663]What differences did you feel going from the .5 to the 0?[/QUOTE

Truck became way more responsive and turned much better. With the stock setup and .5 hubs it had a slight push but was very stable. I run on low to med bite track and this was initially a good thing but as became a better driver I needed more and switching to the 0deg hubs worked wonders although my truck is somewhat twitchy.

I feel switching to 0deg hubs is pretty much mandatory unless you run on low traction tracks.
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Old 01-05-2012 | 12:39 AM
  #103  
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Originally Posted by the big rc
Hey can anyone list the parts needed to change my sc10 to a t4.1. I know the chassis is different, and I need the body mounts, but can't remember what else is needed.
Originally Posted by Rawwolf
Chassis, battery strap, body mounts front and rear, wheels and tires and a front bumper. depending on which kit you are converting(sc10rs) you might need rear axle spacer and you might need front axles assembles. I havnt seen a hex wheel for a stadium truck yet. I am planning on converting my sc10rs to a t4 soon.
If it's a FT SC10 the battery strap will work, it just needs to be shortened.
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Old 01-05-2012 | 07:19 AM
  #104  
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Originally Posted by Rawwolf
Chassis, battery strap, body mounts front and rear, wheels and tires and a front bumper. depending on which kit you are converting(sc10rs) you might need rear axle spacer and you might need front axles assembles. I havnt seen a hex wheel for a stadium truck yet. I am planning on converting my sc10rs to a t4 soon.
The old academy GV2Ts used a hex setup for the rear and could use the AE wheels too. Since TQ Racing is using that platform for there new vehicles, maybe they will come out with wheels that use the hex.

I think HPI had wheels way back that had hex setup too, but obviously not oriented for racing.

That would be cool if someone would make some like that.

Maybe down the road if stadium takes off.
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Old 01-05-2012 | 08:59 AM
  #105  
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Originally Posted by Cain
The old academy GV2Ts used a hex setup for the rear and could use the AE wheels too. Since TQ Racing is using that platform for there new vehicles, maybe they will come out with wheels that use the hex.

I think HPI had wheels way back that had hex setup too, but obviously not oriented for racing.

That would be cool if someone would make some like that.

Maybe down the road if stadium takes off.

I hope it does!! I wana get one!
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