red7fifty

iTrader: (3)

I've had many TT01's since the Enzo first came out in 2003.

I've set up a street/parking lot basher, with a Castle 5700KV and stock gears (19/61) that will keep up with Nitro's on a back straight on a track (but not make the turn at the end!) lol.

A tip, add a 5mm shim (Losi sells these, look up the part # on Horizon) behind both front and rear gearbox drive pinions. That tightens up the gear mesh.

Another use for those large bronze diff bushings, is to use one in place of the spur gear stopper. The fit is snug, so it takes some patience getting it together, but it holds the input shaft in place, and I still have the original spur in the car powered by the CC5700KV. At these high power/RPM levels, the metal center driveshaft set is necessary, but the stock plastic dog bones work fine. (Great set up for maximum bashing performance, with the least amount of money/effort)

I have another modded TT01, set up for 13.5 brushless, fitted with the Tamiya Ball Diffs, Tamiya CVDs, TRF shocks, Tamiya BB steering, GPM arms.
People have complained, that the ball diffs have loose fitting drive cups.....they are loose, but I have fixed that issue, by "gluing" the splines together with a light drop of Tamiya Thread Lock. The semi-pliable compound, sets up and keeps the assembly tightly together, yet, will still be removable if you need. (Pry it off with side cutters acting as a wedge)
The Tamiya brand of CVDs, although more money then the other brands, have proven to worth the higher costs, as the steel and durability have far exceed my experience with other cheaper brands of drive shafts.....even the "Titanium" universals sucked. For the front arms, I selected the GPM alloy arms, since they have an adjustment for the pivot ball, that got rid of a lot of slop in that area.

If you have the original standard version of TT01, you will probably notice, the motor mount wiggles....a VERY small piece of servo tape on top of the motor mount, between the cover and mount plate, will tighten that up.

Get your local club to start a TT01 stock motor spec class, lots of fun!
Last Monday nights' racing, we had 7 stock cars.....the top 6, all finished on the same lap! Now, that's racing!

MD

iTrader: (136)

It's too bad more tracks don't offer such a class. You can get a TT01 or TT01E at a very reasonable price. That's a good looking car.

red7fifty

iTrader: (3)

Thanks. (the front looks, slightly different now)

Cheap to start up this class, $100 something for a kit, grab an old rx and sx from your scrap bin, get a cheap 1500~1800 nicad.

Since these kits now come with ESCs, very little is needed...many hobbyist the parts to complete one.

Everyone can race spec, and invest in the car, complete and ready to race, for less than I have in just one comp esc!

wrxmacorona

Hi, i recentlly change to a xerun 8.5t motor with ezrun 60a esc. i,m having this problem which my esc got cut after a few minutes run.
My car is tt01 gearing 25 55. timing set to 5 and punch set to 6. esc run till cut and motor is hot too but can be touch.

I had my exrun fan replace with a yeah racing high speed fan. but fan is connect directly to the receiver. the old one i had cut away..

I had jus change my pinon from 55 to 58. able to achieve slight longer run time. But with my previous gearing of 25 55 on a 10.5t with max timing and punch, i don't have this problem and able to run till my lipo flat at 7.5v...

Anyone have recommendation? whether to gear up or down.. thought of changing my pinon to 28 and try as my ESC is hot..

FastHPi

I've change my TT-01E over to the YR conversion kit and now the steering has become really stiff/sturdy. Its so stiff to the point where the servo isn't doing its job. (I'm running savox sc-1258tg) Anyone encounter this problem too? I've loosen things up here and there but it still giving me the same problem. The blue aluminum looks nice but its pointless if the car can only go straight.

burnouts

iTrader: (3)

Have a look at the way your arms are installed. I have had the same problem with another brand of arm. A quick test is to loosen off the steering hub screws top and bottom both sides and see if it frees up. Also make sure the the 2 screws in the steering post which screw into the plastic are binding the posts.

The class i race in we do mean things to these cars and people use the yeah racing conversion quite a lot with no issuses

dchapter

hey guys.. i'm having a problem with the setup for TT01e.

after installing hobbywing 10.5t BL motor which comes with the ESC on TT01e, the steering direction is total on the opposite side, meaning when i turn left on the controller the car turns right.. anyway ideal wats wrong??

totally newbie..thanks

TimMo846

iTrader: (1)

Question on sway bars for TT01E-R Kit? Does anyone know how to install them? My LHS has the sway bar kits in stock but there are no linkage parts in the package...... I believe the ones they have are meant for the old TT01 and not the "E" version. Any help would be great.

TimMo846

iTrader: (1)

Flip your servo the other way.... The spine where you put the servo arm on should be on the outside of the car. Or Reverse the steering on your transmitter(controller) if you don't feel like taking it out, but leaving it this way might cause some damage later on down the line by rubbing or getting stuck on the chassis brace.

Davzone

Check page 18 in the manual!
You need 53640 and 53644 for assembling.
53694 is the stabilizer bar set.
Also you need the B8,B10 parts from kit and a the screws shown in the manual.

Giorgio

iTrader: (1)

Hello Creativindy
mind you share a bit of your setup?
I'm rather unexperienced with this bathtube chassis setup and would like to get more out from it.

Thanks

Giorgio

b.wihardja

is there any suggestion to install the body post if "rear carbon damper stay" is combined with "rear camber set"?

currently, I put "body post" on "damper stay" but collides with the "rear camber stay" because mounting "body post" protruding down.

To install the "body post" on the bumper is also not possible due to the collision with the rear wing

Tuff240

Read through the last 10 pages or so and there was lots of helpful info/tips in there, thanks!

You regulars seem to want to know what we want out of the tt-01 so I'll just tell you what I want and let you do what you do best, point me in the right direction.

I want a 50-60mph basher that's strong and cheap (don't we all?). Will be used for showing off on my street and open parking lots at car shows.

I can get a new TT-01 rolling chassis for $70 or I can get an updated TT-01E for $110. Which should I get? Leaning towards the $70 chassis and using the $40 savings on better upgrades?

I have a 2.4ghz KO Propo Mars tc/rx set-up and lipo charger. So I'll need a suitable servo, esc/bl motor, lipo and any upgrades to make it stand up to the power. Gearing advice would also be appreciated.

red7fifty

iTrader: (3)

Both chassis are the same, however, much better steering rack on the "E" version. Though, you can buy those pieces, and add them to the standard chassis....
BUT, the "E" also has stronger shock towers, and option to mount the shocks in two locations.

For speed runs, I recently ran the maiden on a "E" chassis, with a 4.5T Team Checkpoint Brushless motor....on the radar gun, hit 48 mph on stock gear ratio (19t pinion, 61 spur)

Going to creep up one tooth at a time, so I don't overload the motor. Should be able to hit 60+mph without breaking a sweat, handling, will be a different story.

Used a 5000 mah LiPo with 50C rating.
Novak GTB2 ESC
The 4.5T Checkpoint motor, has approx 9200KV rating.

Alum center driveshaft and bearings are a must!
Oil shocks are a must over 20 mph.

red7fifty

iTrader: (3)

Here is a motor pic: