RC10B4.1 FT/WC
#8641
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
Yep,that was the first thing i noticed when coming across from 1/8....no droop adjustment,WTF!!!
Still to this day i hate it....and just wind shock bottoms down instead...
best thing about the DEX210....it has adjustable droop,and can be adjusted in seconds,do a few laps,yep better..keap it,or worse,change back..super simple and quick.
For something that has so much effect on a chassis,im suprised its ignored by the 1/10 manufacturers...
Still to this day i hate it....and just wind shock bottoms down instead...
best thing about the DEX210....it has adjustable droop,and can be adjusted in seconds,do a few laps,yep better..keap it,or worse,change back..super simple and quick.
For something that has so much effect on a chassis,im suprised its ignored by the 1/10 manufacturers...
#8642
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,704
From: Sydney,Australia
Im not seeing that.....
Internal limiters smash onto the inside of yor shock seals and spacers....
External droop screws,steel....and steel insert on chassis = bulletproof + no load on shock at full extension...
I cant see how measuring the droop screws settings can be so hard to do...
Internal limiters smash onto the inside of yor shock seals and spacers....
External droop screws,steel....and steel insert on chassis = bulletproof + no load on shock at full extension...
I cant see how measuring the droop screws settings can be so hard to do...
Last edited by Peli; 12-19-2011 at 07:57 PM.
#8643
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,704
From: Sydney,Australia
Just a thought on what you would like to see on the new B4.2 or B5 or whatever it will be...
I would love to see a designated rideheight measure spot....something like a little hole in the chassis front and rear that the ride height guage can locate too or into...
The same dimples could be used to set yor left/right balance on a setup board with some balance blocks...
I would like to see the 2 most common rideheights come on a plastic block in the kit...23mm and 24 mm on the block...Not much,but a cool little feature
Less screws of different sizes...The B4.1 is pretty good,but could be better..i use the T Plate screws to hold the rear gearbox and motor guard down...
Lose the small hex heads......to easy to strip...
Metric screws.....Ti for the shock tops...to make up for the increase in screw size and weight.
Consistent anodising in the kits,not different shades...if too hard,just do black or alloy
Hard mounted wing....
Wing mount arms joined with screw.less mount twist then,yet can undo just 1 side still
External droop adjustment....
The blue FT Multitool should be in kit too....
Increase the channel sizing for the servo leads and such going through the battery tray...
Modded U Brace and standard U Brace in Kit....Plastic C tower in kit for rear hubs..
Mod the rear tower,so our motor leads and sensor cable can go under the tower,and either side of the battery strap..
That way,when doing maitenance we can unbolt the rear tower and ubrace without having to unsolder the motor...
Not much,just detail stuff.....what do you guys like to see.....Im not talking bout bling stuff,just the little things that are important,and add up too take a kit from good,to great...

I would love to see a designated rideheight measure spot....something like a little hole in the chassis front and rear that the ride height guage can locate too or into...
The same dimples could be used to set yor left/right balance on a setup board with some balance blocks...
I would like to see the 2 most common rideheights come on a plastic block in the kit...23mm and 24 mm on the block...Not much,but a cool little feature
Less screws of different sizes...The B4.1 is pretty good,but could be better..i use the T Plate screws to hold the rear gearbox and motor guard down...
Lose the small hex heads......to easy to strip...
Metric screws.....Ti for the shock tops...to make up for the increase in screw size and weight.
Consistent anodising in the kits,not different shades...if too hard,just do black or alloy
Hard mounted wing....
Wing mount arms joined with screw.less mount twist then,yet can undo just 1 side still
External droop adjustment....
The blue FT Multitool should be in kit too....
Increase the channel sizing for the servo leads and such going through the battery tray...
Modded U Brace and standard U Brace in Kit....Plastic C tower in kit for rear hubs..
Mod the rear tower,so our motor leads and sensor cable can go under the tower,and either side of the battery strap..
That way,when doing maitenance we can unbolt the rear tower and ubrace without having to unsolder the motor...
Not much,just detail stuff.....what do you guys like to see.....Im not talking bout bling stuff,just the little things that are important,and add up too take a kit from good,to great...
Last edited by Peli; 12-19-2011 at 08:24 PM. Reason: few more things....
#8645
Tech Master
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,025
From: The 561
It's not dead, and I'd love to hear some set ups. Seems like it's getting near impossible to get help with my truck without the post being buried by 3 pages of buggy springs.
#8646
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,704
From: Sydney,Australia
For what its worth,our track is a dusty,bumpy outdoor track with big jumps..but it can also be smooth and clean with a groove forming if we get no rain for a few months...
The Mod truck guys that are running the T4.1s tend to run the box setup on both tracks......Watching them,they seem very planted,lots of steering and rear traction...but rotation on demand...
Most have dropped the rib fronts and are running Holeshot,Double D's or even Suburbs/Barcodes on the front....
More consistent grip front to rear...
Im not sure if you have tryed the box FT setup,but the trucks on our track look very settled and fast.
#8647
Hey B4 drivers - snagged you a couple of pics of Cav's B4.1 (with his permission) this weekend. Thought you might want a look at his custom shock collars and Losi springs.

high-res version

high-res version

high-res version

high-res version
#8649
Hey B4 drivers - snagged you a couple of pics of Cav's B4.1 (with his permission) this weekend. Thought you might want a look at his custom shock collars and Losi springs.

high-res version

high-res version

high-res version

high-res version
#8650
Just a thought on what you would like to see on the new B4.2 or B5 or whatever it will be...
I would love to see a designated rideheight measure spot....something like a little hole in the chassis front and rear that the ride height guage can locate too or into...
The same dimples could be used to set yor left/right balance on a setup board with some balance blocks...
I would like to see the 2 most common rideheights come on a plastic block in the kit...23mm and 24 mm on the block...Not much,but a cool little feature
Less screws of different sizes...The B4.1 is pretty good,but could be better..i use the T Plate screws to hold the rear gearbox and motor guard down...
Lose the small hex heads......to easy to strip...
Metric screws.....Ti for the shock tops...to make up for the increase in screw size and weight.
Consistent anodising in the kits,not different shades...if too hard,just do black or alloy
Hard mounted wing....
Wing mount arms joined with screw.less mount twist then,yet can undo just 1 side still
External droop adjustment....
The blue FT Multitool should be in kit too....
Increase the channel sizing for the servo leads and such going through the battery tray...
Modded U Brace and standard U Brace in Kit....Plastic C tower in kit for rear hubs..
Mod the rear tower,so our motor leads and sensor cable can go under the tower,and either side of the battery strap..
That way,when doing maitenance we can unbolt the rear tower and ubrace without having to unsolder the motor...
Not much,just detail stuff.....what do you guys like to see.....Im not talking bout bling stuff,just the little things that are important,and add up too take a kit from good,to great...

I would love to see a designated rideheight measure spot....something like a little hole in the chassis front and rear that the ride height guage can locate too or into...
The same dimples could be used to set yor left/right balance on a setup board with some balance blocks...
I would like to see the 2 most common rideheights come on a plastic block in the kit...23mm and 24 mm on the block...Not much,but a cool little feature
Less screws of different sizes...The B4.1 is pretty good,but could be better..i use the T Plate screws to hold the rear gearbox and motor guard down...
Lose the small hex heads......to easy to strip...
Metric screws.....Ti for the shock tops...to make up for the increase in screw size and weight.
Consistent anodising in the kits,not different shades...if too hard,just do black or alloy
Hard mounted wing....
Wing mount arms joined with screw.less mount twist then,yet can undo just 1 side still
External droop adjustment....
The blue FT Multitool should be in kit too....
Increase the channel sizing for the servo leads and such going through the battery tray...
Modded U Brace and standard U Brace in Kit....Plastic C tower in kit for rear hubs..
Mod the rear tower,so our motor leads and sensor cable can go under the tower,and either side of the battery strap..
That way,when doing maitenance we can unbolt the rear tower and ubrace without having to unsolder the motor...
Not much,just detail stuff.....what do you guys like to see.....Im not talking bout bling stuff,just the little things that are important,and add up too take a kit from good,to great...
That one about the rear tower is cool. I have a-not-so-neat cable job so i can use bullets to remove my motor. It would be great.
I don't care about the screws, but those two on the front bulkhead need to go.
#8651
#8652
#8653
the rpm retainers do no sit perfectly but they are fine....
here is a setup I recommend, it is very easy to drive agressive, great amount of steering and bite just choose the right tires.
front
inside on tower out on arm(shock) 32.5 oil #2 pistion, 2 limiters. Ballstud inside on tower with one washer, middle hole on castor block, 2mm of bumpsteer. Carbon tower,top plate, hinge brace.
rear
inside on tower inside on arm,(shock) 27.5 oil #3 pistion 2 limiters, ballstud inside with one washer, 3rd hole out on 0 degree hubs. 2degrees of squat 3.0 of toe in. carbon arms, u brace.
pink losi rear silver front!

here is a setup I recommend, it is very easy to drive agressive, great amount of steering and bite just choose the right tires.
front
inside on tower out on arm(shock) 32.5 oil #2 pistion, 2 limiters. Ballstud inside on tower with one washer, middle hole on castor block, 2mm of bumpsteer. Carbon tower,top plate, hinge brace.
rear
inside on tower inside on arm,(shock) 27.5 oil #3 pistion 2 limiters, ballstud inside with one washer, 3rd hole out on 0 degree hubs. 2degrees of squat 3.0 of toe in. carbon arms, u brace.
pink losi rear silver front!

#8654
How the hell are you supposed to remove the rubber shield to clean these suckers? These are the first RC bearings I've ever had issues with removing a shield to clean. The bearings in my front wheels sound like crap. Are they worth cleaning or replace with something better?
Acer?
Boca?
Acer?
Boca?
#8655
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,704
From: Sydney,Australia
Love the topic you just opened. I think it's time for the next day for AE. Not necceserily a new car. A b4.2 would do it.
That one about the rear tower is cool. I have a-not-so-neat cable job so i can use bullets to remove my motor. It would be great.
I don't care about the screws, but those two on the front bulkhead need to go.
That one about the rear tower is cool. I have a-not-so-neat cable job so i can use bullets to remove my motor. It would be great.
I don't care about the screws, but those two on the front bulkhead need to go.
+1 air8
i didnt mean this to be a "wheres the new buggy" topic,just a simple few things you would like to see,or be improved...
I have been intending on changing to Durango for the last 6 months.....but,theres beauty in the simple,subtle looking engineering that AE is using on the B4.1,i like it,and im staying put for a while...




