RC10B4.1 FT/WC
12-18-2011 | 08:59 PM
#8596
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
B4 front shock shaft = 0.71 part number 6460
B4.1 front shock shaft = 0.80 part number 9723
Rears are the same 1.02 for both but there are two different part numbers (probably coating or something different other than length)
B4.1 front shock shaft = 0.80 part number 9723
Rears are the same 1.02 for both but there are two different part numbers (probably coating or something different other than length)
12-19-2011 | 05:57 AM
#8600
Tech Initiate
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 20
From: Munich
12-19-2011 | 06:29 AM
#8602
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 83
From: Vienna/Austria
Here are some pics. I use the orange springs on the front and the yellow springs on the rear. Ride height is 24mm for both front and rear. There is still room for adjustment on the shocks. I use 1/2 oz weight in the rear and 1/4 oz in each triangle, so that could make some difference. I also use Traxxas uppers rather than the RPM's, they seem to fit better.
Attachment 850175
Attachment 850177
Attachment 850175
Attachment 850177
12-19-2011 | 06:30 AM
#8603
These work too, Also in blue.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ing-Cups-Black
I second the Traxxas spring tops, they work good.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ing-Cups-Black
I second the Traxxas spring tops, they work good.
Yes in the rear! I love them! Ball isn't wide enough to be used in the front.
Hey Jake what big bore springs are you using on your T4.1? Kyosho?
12-19-2011 | 06:38 AM
#8606
not running BB springs yet, just running kyosho regular bore springs till 22t springs come out and i can do the swap on both cars.
but i am using kyosho black in the rear and kyosho 55mm #75 in the front right now. kyosho big bore springs are just too expensive for me LOL
12-19-2011 | 07:02 AM
#8607
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,704
From: Sydney,Australia
Hi AE lovers
Bit of an update on my Team C Big Bore experience....
Just completed a 4hr enduro on the weekend,ran in a 4 car team with 3 other Mod 2wd's....DEX210,Rb5 SP2,RB5 SP2 WC....
Track was blown to pieces,but wicked to drive on...Ruts,rocks and dust everywhere
They big bores were faultless,even after that extended beating,not a leak....over 80 laps went on them,they have totally impressed me,with the 8mm chassis and big bores,its in another world...
No more worrying bout flat landing jumps...or landing not perfect,just land it and run away...
Im finding that the BB's do everything that the V2's did,and more...they eat up the little small bumps at low speed,same with the highspeed stuff...and land big jumps with less bottoming out,chassis settled instantly.
So compliant,forgiving,and yet when pushed....super fast and consistent
Running 1.1 holes all round 6 hole pistons, 37.5 Losi front,32.5 rear oils, Durango Light blue front spring,Light red rear...
BIG thumbs up.....wont be going back to small bore anythings...Some coming for my SC10 VERY soon...
Heres a pic of something new im playing with...sorry bout the horrible pic...i tryed a few times,camera didnt want to play ball...
Cougar arms.....so i can get a little extra uptravel when chassis fully bottomed out,and release the lower spring retainer from interfering with the arm....
As usual,when i want to test the arms out,it starts raining...its summer over here
......shouldnt change much,the geometry was very similar..shock holes out 0.5mm to the outer,pin to pin length almost identical,maybe 1mm
Flipped the arms left to right to gain some WB back and move the lower shock mount back,lost 2mm WB over the AE arms and 1mm - 2mm width.....can fix that easily
Next,the rear can get a little tweak too...
Bit of an update on my Team C Big Bore experience....
Just completed a 4hr enduro on the weekend,ran in a 4 car team with 3 other Mod 2wd's....DEX210,Rb5 SP2,RB5 SP2 WC....
Track was blown to pieces,but wicked to drive on...Ruts,rocks and dust everywhere
They big bores were faultless,even after that extended beating,not a leak....over 80 laps went on them,they have totally impressed me,with the 8mm chassis and big bores,its in another world...
No more worrying bout flat landing jumps...or landing not perfect,just land it and run away...
Im finding that the BB's do everything that the V2's did,and more...they eat up the little small bumps at low speed,same with the highspeed stuff...and land big jumps with less bottoming out,chassis settled instantly.
So compliant,forgiving,and yet when pushed....super fast and consistent
Running 1.1 holes all round 6 hole pistons, 37.5 Losi front,32.5 rear oils, Durango Light blue front spring,Light red rear...
BIG thumbs up.....wont be going back to small bore anythings...Some coming for my SC10 VERY soon...
Heres a pic of something new im playing with...sorry bout the horrible pic...i tryed a few times,camera didnt want to play ball...
Cougar arms.....so i can get a little extra uptravel when chassis fully bottomed out,and release the lower spring retainer from interfering with the arm....
As usual,when i want to test the arms out,it starts raining...its summer over here
......shouldnt change much,the geometry was very similar..shock holes out 0.5mm to the outer,pin to pin length almost identical,maybe 1mmFlipped the arms left to right to gain some WB back and move the lower shock mount back,lost 2mm WB over the AE arms and 1mm - 2mm width.....can fix that easily
Next,the rear can get a little tweak too...
12-19-2011 | 07:16 AM
#8608
Tech Master
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,025
From: The 561
Been running my new T4.1 Brushless and I have a few questions.
What's up with the brakes? If I so much as think about braking the rear wheels lock up and I lose control. Is this somehow adjustable with the speed control? I know there is an adjustment for drag brake, but I was under the impression that it's only supposed to affect the amount of brake at neutral throttle.
Also, what's the first step in getting the wheels to hook up under throttle? Seems like the truck is all torque and no top end. If you're not super careful, all it wants to do is burn up tires.
I'm using the same setup as Brent Thielke that I got off of AE's website. My local track is a short, clay, high grip, and low dust. The only differences in my setup is the motor and gearing are bone stock.
Forgive me if these are amateur questions, but I'm just getting back into the hobby from a 15 year hiatus.
What's up with the brakes? If I so much as think about braking the rear wheels lock up and I lose control. Is this somehow adjustable with the speed control? I know there is an adjustment for drag brake, but I was under the impression that it's only supposed to affect the amount of brake at neutral throttle.
Also, what's the first step in getting the wheels to hook up under throttle? Seems like the truck is all torque and no top end. If you're not super careful, all it wants to do is burn up tires.
I'm using the same setup as Brent Thielke that I got off of AE's website. My local track is a short, clay, high grip, and low dust. The only differences in my setup is the motor and gearing are bone stock.
Forgive me if these are amateur questions, but I'm just getting back into the hobby from a 15 year hiatus.
12-19-2011 | 07:21 AM
#8609
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,704
From: Sydney,Australia
Another thing i tryed a while back was balancing the car side to side a little better....
There is 2mm in the motor plate to gain with spacers to centre the motor a little more....
There also the b4 time old trick of just weighting the receiver side....
Well,i went 1 better,and mounted my RS where the receiver normally goes....no side to side weight needed
The esc wire goes under the U brace and over the rear toeblock and battery foam....the servo wire just runs down battery tray side...
In this pic you can see i hard mounted the wing too....dremmeled wing clip nubs down to flat with the wing angle wedges,then drilled a 1.8mm hole through the whole mount,then mounted wing with 2mm screws and countersunk washers...
Feels way more consistent at top speed going from full throttle to full break....bit more stable,wing just fills up,rather than filling up,and then pivoting back a bit and letting the airbrake effect go...
I thought wings may get beaten more,and last less time..but,its turning out the oppisite,they are lasting longer.....go figure
I did the same with those little screws that always strip in the front bulkhead,yanked and binned them,replaced with 2mm screws with the heads dremmelled down to fit in brace....no more stripped screws,or pulled screws from crashes,and use a bigger driver...win,win,win....go metric
Sorry bout the dirty buggy,messy wiring....there race cars,i treat them as such,beautiful on the inside,dont really give a shit bout there looks under the shell or the dirt/dust on the chassis
There is 2mm in the motor plate to gain with spacers to centre the motor a little more....
There also the b4 time old trick of just weighting the receiver side....
Well,i went 1 better,and mounted my RS where the receiver normally goes....no side to side weight needed
The esc wire goes under the U brace and over the rear toeblock and battery foam....the servo wire just runs down battery tray side...
In this pic you can see i hard mounted the wing too....dremmeled wing clip nubs down to flat with the wing angle wedges,then drilled a 1.8mm hole through the whole mount,then mounted wing with 2mm screws and countersunk washers...
Feels way more consistent at top speed going from full throttle to full break....bit more stable,wing just fills up,rather than filling up,and then pivoting back a bit and letting the airbrake effect go...
I thought wings may get beaten more,and last less time..but,its turning out the oppisite,they are lasting longer.....go figure
I did the same with those little screws that always strip in the front bulkhead,yanked and binned them,replaced with 2mm screws with the heads dremmelled down to fit in brace....no more stripped screws,or pulled screws from crashes,and use a bigger driver...win,win,win....go metric
Sorry bout the dirty buggy,messy wiring....there race cars,i treat them as such,beautiful on the inside,dont really give a shit bout there looks under the shell or the dirt/dust on the chassis
12-19-2011 | 07:26 AM
#8610
Tech Adept
iTrader: (13)
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 192
From: Michigan
No problem, TRA3768 (you will need two sets) They fit great.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...rs-Upper-Lower
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...rs-Upper-Lower