RC10B4.1 FT/WC
12-13-2011 | 07:07 AM
#8461
ALSO DONOT OVERTIGHTEN THE TRANS CASE BOLTS, THEY WILL EAT INTO YOUR SLIPPER PLATE! LEARNED THE HARD WAY.
Last edited by flippz; 12-13-2011 at 10:53 AM.
12-14-2011 | 12:13 AM
#8466
Tech Legend
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 22,595
From: TRCR Modified Driver
Aaaah C-On !
its a joke
I wish I had something nobody knows .....
Ooo thats right ..
at first
not all had the team use the familiar 8m deal with a longer chassis .
Some had a combination, little longer chassis with a modified rear arm mount instead ...
its a joke
I wish I had something nobody knows .....
Ooo thats right ..
at first
not all had the team use the familiar 8m deal with a longer chassis .
Some had a combination, little longer chassis with a modified rear arm mount instead ...
12-14-2011 | 12:42 AM
#8467
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,974
From: Norwood, OH...and CCRCR and The OhioRCFactory
Stupid question.
Apart from being made of cool lookin CF, what is the advantage of using the C rear hub towers, AND dropping the inner ballstud? Wouldn't that be the same as running no ballstud spacers in the inner, and A or B hub towers?
Apart from being made of cool lookin CF, what is the advantage of using the C rear hub towers, AND dropping the inner ballstud? Wouldn't that be the same as running no ballstud spacers in the inner, and A or B hub towers?
12-14-2011 | 01:24 AM
#8468
Little update on the Team C Big bores im playing around with...
After building them and running them on our last clubby for the year,i can say,im very impressed.......add the same sort of stability and consistency as what the +8mm chassis does....very impressed with the result...
Could get away with less than perfect landings way easier.....
The shocks need a little work,they managed to get me on the podium 3 times on the night in the finals,so there not far off....
The orings are junk,bin them and replace with anything...they are too big,and create big stiction....
Replaced the lower retainers with kyosho retainers,there shorter,and suit the durango spring better
Piston holes are tiny...0.9mm approx,30 weight oil felt like 70 weight...
I drilled all out to 1.1mm as a starting point...
Then added 30 weight rear,and 32.5 front...tested today,way too fast reacting...car just wouldnt settle through sweeper,or bumps...didnt jump too well either
Added 3 limiters rear,and 4 front...still a little too much droop,also i went to 32.5 rear,and 37.5 front.....hopefully it settles the buggy a little
Im running Durango Light Blue fronts,and Light Red rears....The setup on the chassis is Vassa worlds....
Running on big outdoor track,big jumps,medium traction....
Will report back on how it goes tomorow.....I can give accurate measurements of the Big Bores Vs's the V2's if anyone likes,and also a more detailed description on the fitting...
After building them and running them on our last clubby for the year,i can say,im very impressed.......add the same sort of stability and consistency as what the +8mm chassis does....very impressed with the result...
Could get away with less than perfect landings way easier.....
The shocks need a little work,they managed to get me on the podium 3 times on the night in the finals,so there not far off....
The orings are junk,bin them and replace with anything...they are too big,and create big stiction....
Replaced the lower retainers with kyosho retainers,there shorter,and suit the durango spring better
Piston holes are tiny...0.9mm approx,30 weight oil felt like 70 weight...
I drilled all out to 1.1mm as a starting point...
Then added 30 weight rear,and 32.5 front...tested today,way too fast reacting...car just wouldnt settle through sweeper,or bumps...didnt jump too well either
Added 3 limiters rear,and 4 front...still a little too much droop,also i went to 32.5 rear,and 37.5 front.....hopefully it settles the buggy a little
Im running Durango Light Blue fronts,and Light Red rears....The setup on the chassis is Vassa worlds....
Running on big outdoor track,big jumps,medium traction....
Will report back on how it goes tomorow.....I can give accurate measurements of the Big Bores Vs's the V2's if anyone likes,and also a more detailed description on the fitting...
are these the same as the ones on the academy buggy?
I'd beinterested in a % increase over the stock ae product.
12-14-2011 | 02:57 AM
#8469
yea i run battery forward. The only weight in the car is the ballast and it is pulling so much wheelies. Bk bars give lots of bite, But i would like to try barcodes for better rotation.
12-14-2011 | 04:46 AM
#8470
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,704
From: Sydney,Australia
.....guess us Aussie's have hit it too much lately
Cherry,yor the man..only problem,my DX3R has no room to move battery forward...suggestion???
....ooohhh baby,Team secretsWould adding 5 grams to the front of Battery tray have same effect,or would it give to much front weight bias...
Last edited by Peli; 12-14-2011 at 04:56 AM.
12-14-2011 | 04:50 AM
#8471
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,704
From: Sydney,Australia
Damn it...3rd go at answering this.....Midnite,brain confusing me
12-14-2011 | 05:05 AM
#8472
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,704
From: Sydney,Australia
They are easier to get for us guys too..The distributor races at St Ives
Not sure on the Academy buggys shocks...
I cant give you a %,because the AE's were good...but these,are easily better..
I have had 2 runs on them,and i can flat land the crossover no probs...land it 1 side down(left or right) no probs....before i was always doing midair corrections to land flat...
So,they are way more forgiving than the AE's....They really payoff when you land out of shape, and through the woops...Also,the jump better in the rythmn section...
Add this too the stability added from the +8mm,and i think im on to something just quietly
It shows that a big shock works outdoors
There arent perfect,pistons need work,and you have to source and fit Durango,or TLR 22 springs and spring retainers....
12-14-2011 | 05:09 AM
#8473
