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Old 12-08-2011 | 09:32 PM
  #8326  
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Originally Posted by T-BirdJunkie
Because toe at the inner hingepin affects things differently than at the hub.
Bingo!
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Old 12-08-2011 | 09:35 PM
  #8327  
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Originally Posted by Ryno B4.1
What is it that causes the larger toe blocks to make the car feel slower?
slower corner rotation
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Old 12-08-2011 | 09:44 PM
  #8328  
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Little help please?

Bought the RTR 4.1 brushless that comes with a tx. I don't want to get rechargeable AA's, and I'm sick of replacing 8 batteries at a time. Can anyone make some recommendations for battery packs? Thanks in advance.
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Old 12-08-2011 | 09:47 PM
  #8329  
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Originally Posted by Jake S
why not just order toe blocks? its like $6 for 2.5, 3.0, 3.5 and 4.0.... lol
changing in board toe also affects your wheel base.
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Old 12-08-2011 | 10:05 PM
  #8330  
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Originally Posted by racer1812
A tip for using the FT aluminum rear hubs, drill and tap the bottom and use a small grub screw on the hinge pin. Takes out almost all the slop that the FT hubs have...

may have been mentioned before but I figured it was worth putting out there again.
Thanks! My b44.1 and b4.1 are gonna get this treatment before the next track day. Awesome tip
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Old 12-08-2011 | 10:14 PM
  #8331  
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
changing in board toe also affects your wheel base.
which can be adjusted moving hubs too...
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Old 12-08-2011 | 10:27 PM
  #8332  
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I bought these:

http://www.hobbypartz.com/77p-recharge-aa-2200-4.html

And charge them with my regular charger as a pack.

Originally Posted by Steve737
Little help please?

Bought the RTR 4.1 brushless that comes with a tx. I don't want to get rechargeable AA's, and I'm sick of replacing 8 batteries at a time. Can anyone make some recommendations for battery packs? Thanks in advance.
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Old 12-08-2011 | 10:28 PM
  #8333  
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Originally Posted by jirish617
the plastic ones linked above, it doesn't say on amain if they are 0* or not, how do you know?
all the plastic hubs are 0*
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Old 12-08-2011 | 10:41 PM
  #8334  
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Originally Posted by racer1812
all the plastic hubs are 0*
ooo ima be this douchbag...

NUH UH!!

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Left-Right-GT2
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Old 12-08-2011 | 11:46 PM
  #8335  
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I'm picking up a used b4.1. I have a new castle sv2 and 4pole 4600kv sitting around.

Is this set up too much torque for the b4.1? I don't want to be doing wheelies on the track! If so, any solutions? Thanks fellas
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Old 12-09-2011 | 04:10 AM
  #8336  
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Originally Posted by brent701
I will try that. I can through some used tires on and do it in the street for practice. the RC track is not open after 5 unless it is race night.
I will start checked the understeer out of a corner and remove a washer retest and so on. see how it does. I could add 2 washers in the back and be back to stock inner ball stud height I had one washer added to that before I did the brace mod. good thing I have a lot of washers (spacers)

but Am I understanding the roll center adjustment right like that link said
Higher the ball stud = higher roll center?
Lower ball stud = lower roll center.
Shorter link = higher roll center
Longer link = lower roll center

Upper holes or raise ball stud (lower roll center) • Increases steering into corner
• Car is more responsive

Lower holes or lower ball stud (higher roll center)
• Decreases steering into corner
• Car is less responsive
• Use in high-grip conditions

also if you go to xrays web site and look at the tuning guide it will help you under stand what things do.
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Old 12-09-2011 | 07:19 AM
  #8337  
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Originally Posted by 20 SMOKE
Upper holes or raise ball stud (lower roll center) • Increases steering into corner
• Car is more responsive

Lower holes or lower ball stud (higher roll center)
• Decreases steering into corner
• Car is less responsive
• Use in high-grip conditions

also if you go to xrays web site and look at the tuning guide it will help you under stand what things do.
I guess that is the problem. That link said the link mount higher on the inside makes the roll center higher. Only way I can think of to make the link mount higher is to bring up the ball stud. but from what you just said. is incorrect.

Starting to get a little lost here
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Old 12-09-2011 | 07:55 AM
  #8338  
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http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/sho...p?file_id=4461
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Old 12-09-2011 | 07:57 AM
  #8339  
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Originally Posted by brent701
I guess that is the problem. That link said the link mount higher on the inside makes the roll center higher. Only way I can think of to make the link mount higher is to bring up the ball stud. but from what you just said. is incorrect.

Starting to get a little lost here
If you want to raise the roll center, you need to drop the inside camber link mounting location (ie. remove washers). I know, it's counter-intuitive but that's the way it works. Raising and lowering roll centers on the B4 is easy so I would say just give it a shot. You won't even need to adjust the camber length. Just pop the rod end off, move the stud up or down, and pop the rod end back on. For your own sanity, try moving in both directions and see how it feels when you are driving it. That's the best way to test these things anyways. Report back when you find out. It would be awesome to have some of these links verified. I need to do something similar with mine. I actually have a problem getting the back end to hook up coming out of hairpins. I think I rotate a little too easily.
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Old 12-09-2011 | 08:04 AM
  #8340  
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Just converted to JC rear hexes and found that you have to ream the Kyosho RB5 wheels out a little to fit over the axle. Also had to use an extra shim behind the hexes to push it out a bit more so the wheel doesn't wobble.
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