I'm sure you don't want to hear about mine but I will tell you anyway. I am finding the toro to be very user friendly. It's hard to describe the power delivery but picture a CR250 coming out of a corner in second gear. It has a very distinct sound, nice and throaty but puts the power down very nicely. I am running the dynamite long life shoes and have tried using drilled shoes, higher stall speeds etc. and this thing loves to be loaded hard and loaded early. I will be going back to the full shoe and the 1.0 springs this weekend and that seems to be the hot ticket. The lighter shoes and/or stiffer springs gave it a slightly high stall speed and it would actually bog or flatten out coming out of the corner causing excessive heat and shoe/bell wear and eventually it ran thin on the contact surface, glazed the shoes and lost corner exit. I found this out the hard way in the A-main this past weekend. i tried running 1.1 shoes with 2mm drilled shoes and it melted the shoes and bell to nothing
I had a feeling it was going to do that but I had a slight low end clutch stall bog using 1.0's with the same drilled shoes and I wanted to see if would get worse if I increased the stall on it. It was an experiment that I already knew the answer to but more of I wanted to show a guy what would happen and what to listen for in the clutches instead of trying to find the answer in the needles as alot of people commonly do. I ran it with solid shoes and .9 springs the race before that and it grunted out of every corner with authority but had just a slight clutch bog on the initial hit but it quickly overcame that with the engine's torque band so I think the .95's or 1.0's with a full shoe will be the good middle ground on that one. If you are running heavy shoes, try the 1.05's.