i adjust tweak in a slightly different way. it really only applies to tweak that doesnt come from the usual places that can be repaired. I put solid turnbuckles on in place of all of the shocks and I put setup wheels on. I adjust everything to level with the turnbuckles. the car must also be pretty balanced left to right and front to rear.

It difficult to describe how to use the calipers but i set the calipers vertical and pick up the rr axle with the id measuring part of the caliper until the fr wheel just comes off the setup board. I then do the same thing to the lr wheel. if the fl tires come off the ground at the same distance the twist compliance is the same on both sides and the car will accelerate perfectly straight.

if its off by more than a mm i release the top front of the top deck but leave the screws a hair tight. i then twist the chassis by hand slightly and tighten the front deck. I do the left to right lift againand repeat the twist until the lift is dead even on both sides.

if everything else that you normally adjust for tweak has been checked out and you get the left to right twist even using the top deck corner weights, ride heights, and preload collars all get symetrical and easy to adjust.

because the stuff you have mounted to the top deck like double sided tape and so on stiffens different parts of the chassis you have to slight over twist the chassis in some cases to make sure it twist evenly on both sides. you will at some point have to re-adjust ride height i you have allot of tweak but eventually the ride height will be flat and the flex from left to right will be even.

what i found is that large holes or things mounted to the chassis with the super stick 3m tape will make the car prone to tweaking easily so i avoid chassis with large asymmetric holes and mounts. if you mount esc and receiver to a seperate piece of carbon stock and use 1 small piece of tape to mount the stock to the chassis the car will flex symmetrically.