Originally Posted by
Mb3195
H1/H2 links on the front (long length) L1/L2 on the rear (long length). The short ones wont allow you to change direction quickly enough if you have a tight track.
Check! I think I am going to revert back to the rubber tire setup sheet provided with the kit. They have the h1/h2 listed and the middle roll center blocks. If I don't get the traction I need I will change out the rears.
Originally Posted by
Mb3195
With droop I just use the droop gauge, I dont find the other method accurate enough unless you have setup wheels. Try a droop gauge and go 5.5 at the front 4.5 at the rear.
I do have a droop gauge and blocks. What I do is set the car down on the board with the wheels on and measure the ride height. Then I slowly lift the car sliding the ride height gauge under the car until the wheels lift off the ground. The difference is what the droop is on the car. I then take the wheels off and use the droop gauge/blocks to accurately adjust the downstops to get the droop I want. If for example the rear of the car droops 5mm and when I put it on the blocks and the guage measures 4, I move the arm up until it reaches 6. This will give me a droop of 3 since I removed 2mm of downtravel.
I pay little attention to the numbers but rather use them as a refference to get my settings. I see on the setup sheet listings of downstop values, I'd rather see them as droop values. If I do put a downstop value on there is is only the number I need to get the droop I need...make sense? I hope so cause my head hurts after typing that.
Originally Posted by
Mb3195
DOnt pay any attention to the quick reference guide, I find alot of things it tells you to do are the opposite to what actually happens.
Shoot! I kinda liked that sheet...if this happens do this, etc...made tuning seem kinda easy for a newb. Conditions are so drastically different that I can see how a sheet like that can be misleading sometimes.