yeah i know that there is a difference. so thats not really a good buzzer then? maybe i will just spend the cash for the novak then. also, how would i wire it up? i read the manual but i can't really understand these two parts:

Input Harness Connection--Disconnect ESC’s input signal harness from the receiver and plug it into the 3-pin header on the Smart-Stop--connect input harness with the WHITE wire toward the outside of the Smart-Stop’s PC board. The white/red/black sequence of ESC’s harness should match Smart-Stop’s signal wires soldered to the opposite side of PC board--white over white, etc.
Connect Smart-Stop’s harness to receiver throttle channel (#2), making sure wiring sequence matches the other receiver connections.

Power Lead Connection--Measure and cut the Smart-Stop’s 20G RED & BLACK silicone power leads to the required length for where it is to be mounted. Strip & tin the ends of the power leads and solder to your ESC’s RED (positive) & BLACK (negative) solder tabs--RED power lead to RED (positive) tab; BLACK power lead to BLACK (negative) tab.
When soldering leads to the tabs, make sure you do not short any of the tabs to each other--your electronics will be damaged! If connecting Smart-Stop’s power leads to battery, its connector, or battery wires, insulate solder joints & exposed wiring to avoid short-circuits. Note: When using 4-Cell Smart-Stop with the Novak HV Brushless ESC, connect power leads the same solder tabs as the ESC’s Power Capacitor.

would i need to do both steps or would i pick only one?