Originally Posted by
Solidd33
And would a complete gear diff rebuild and adding 3k fluid probably be safe bet on a recently purchased used SC10?
(running on a slightly loamy 1/8th style track)
If you wish to keep using the gear diff, primo86gt sums it up here:
Originally Posted by
primo86gt
I tried diff fluid, after about 3 races they were pretty much empty, did this 4 times after EVERYTHING was new, went back to grease. I use these Kyosho shims KYO96641 and get them from a main, there are 3 different thicknesses
If the gears are new I use the thinnest, if it starts clicking after a few months,
and the gears are still good i use the .2 shim and so on. check your idler gear some times they'll cause a clicking noise.
After dealing with the gear diff and shimming it to oblivion I switched to a ball diff and haven't looked back. The gear diff is fine, but more expensive to maintain (contrary to popular belief). I bought a small tub (like film canister size) of white grease and I rebuild my ball diff every 5 race/practice days (usually about every 6 weeks or so) and I reuse my diff balls for at least 2 rebuilds and sand and flip the diff rings (still on my original diff rings and balls after 2 rebuilds in my SC10, same with my B4.1 FT after 5 rebuilds). The gear diff just doesn't seem to hold up to big power or to a high bite track... and when the two are combined it really doesn't make sense to keep using it.