Originally Posted by
foreunder
I picked up my first SC10 this week. I really wanted to get the FT but my local hobby store was out of them so I decided that for the money I would get an RS and upgrade some of the parts. For a RTR option the truck is OK with one major exception, the play in the front end. There is a fair amount of play in the front end and there is no way for the truck to be truly stable with that much slop. It sounds like this is a common problem and I wish AE would have corrected it to begin with but they didn't. I have read about a few different ways to correct the problem, here are the most common:
1. Replace the bushings with bearings.
2. Replace all of the ball cups with RPM ball cups.
3. Add o-rings to the ball studs.
4. Remove the e-clip on the front axles and place one shim behind it.
5. Replace the front axles with the inline axles (not sure what all the different parts are that need replace with that option).
Anyway, I am looking for feedback on what actually works and what doesn't. Should I be doing one or two of these things or do I need to do them all to correct the problem, etc.
Any feedback you can provide would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
1. Replace the bushings with bearings.
There are no bushings to replace. The SC10 does come with full ball bearings. I ran mine until they started getting noisy (and one failed) and replaced the full kit with ceramic ball bearings. Not a necessary upgrade immediately.
2. Replace all of the ball cups with RPM ball cups.
I would be less concerned with the ball cups and more concerned with the turnbuckles. The first thing to go on my RTR was the turnbuckles, and I have since replaced them with the Factory Team turnbuckles, although Lunsford turnbuckles are also good.
3. Add o-rings to the ball studs.
Why?
4. Remove the e-clip on the front axles and place one shim behind it.
I run the hex conversion on my RTR and I can't figure out why you would want to do this.
5. Replace the front axles with the inline axles (not sure what all the different parts are that need replace with that option).
Again, I'm not sure why you would want to do this. At my local track (SDRC Raceway) JConcepts BarCodes (and similar) tires work extremely well when worn in, so having the hexes front and rear allows for rotation of tires to save you money on having to buy separate front and rear wheels/tires.