Originally Posted by
WideOpenThrottle RC
Maybe I've been doing it wrong all this time but I'm not understanding your guy's setup changes for high bite tracks. When the traction is high your going lower in diff oils to get the truck to rotate? Isn't that what camber links, toe and wheelbase at the rear hubs are used for? I don't know what kinda track you run on but when theres a good amount of traction on mine I'm going up in the diffs to put more power to the ground and if I need more rotation or steering I'm changing chassis setups not diffs. Not saying your incorrect just asking what your thought process is cuz maybe I'm wrong
Yup, your general train of thought is usually right. I actually tried that for a whole winter indoor season in vain. For some reason, the SCTE needs a light fluid in the center to get rotation from mid corner on out...likely because of the long wheelbase to width ratio. We were getting beat on by the Durango pretty good for a whole indoor season, but are now very close to being on par....mostly by going to light fluid in the center diff.
Most people think their SCTE rotates nice....and it does...until you run against a dialed in Rango. Those trucks rotate like lightening, albeit at the cost of stability...but indoors where the track is generally smooth stability is a mute point. I've tried about every diff combo possible, and no doubt about it, a light center diff just plain WORKS in the SCTE
I also don't notice any adverse effect in acceleration. I did, when I first tested it, but with the new springs that are a little more progressive, the truck doesn't squat as much under acceleration and seems to have very balanced traction front and rear when under power. Because of this, it doesn't seem to make a difference when having light fluid in the center anymore in terms of acceleration, but it does make that little bit of difference rotating out of the turn.