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Old 07-04-2011, 10:16 AM
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cherry2blost
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Originally Posted by Benzaah
When are people going to stop dreaming about this Friggin Data Logger. They will never make it fit into a small enough package for us to be happy with. There is hardly any room in a modern car as it is.


And I wish they would actually tell us what each step of the boost and turbo was in degree's so we could figure out our end Rpm... Back in the good old 518 days it was much easier IMO as setting 7 was 18 degrees and if I had 6 turbo and timing acc 350 with a 6000 start my end rpm was going to be 14400. The current set up guide for 211 is not exactly clear on this issue.

Bank on approx 1/2 (old degree) per point on the ESC and you will not be far out. One thing that is pointless is this fascination with end RPM, unless you are using a Data logger it is no use in the real world, as an example with my Logger and very low gearing I have hit what I believe to be the absolute limit of RPM on the HW 13.5 at 54,000RPM ON THE TRACK. We know this as it held that figure for 6/10th of a second during a speed run. This obsession with End RPM actually means nothing because it is the point at which the ESC ceases to add any more timing, this does not mean that the motor miraculously tops out but that it will carry on accelerating up to its design limitations or Detonation !

Has anyone done much testing with settings above 64 points IE boost 50 turbo 30? I have one club meet for the season left and after the last race I plan on seeing if I can blow up my seasons motor with max settings(just for fun) Technically the 211 manual says the speedy won’t add more than 64 points.
The ESC will only add a total of 64 points of timing.

Doing the destruction run may well detonate your ESC too and with the fact you posted your intentions here I doubt any of the distributors would be willing to honour the repair FoC


Originally Posted by ozzy-crawl
how could Hobbywing give a end rpm, they would have to calculate every variable, which would be every motor that could be used with the esc
with every different gearing possibility and with every different boost/turbo combo. because changing anyone of these would change the end rpm.
the chart would be more confusing than the esc itself would it not
Hmm as you say we need a data logger hehe
Well I refer you to the passage above, but the make of motor is unimportant as the ESC reads RPM and RPM is RPM whoever makes the motor (Physics)

Originally Posted by jay m
anyone tried the HW Xerun motors and how they compare
I have had the misfortune to be the victim of a moron at the track who was the first person I have heard of killing an XERUN Motor on an extreme stock ESC, he turned off the Thermal protection and wondered why it melted. When I went into his settings on 211 and geared in the 4's on a 21.5 on a medium size UK track ,he was on 53 Boost and 31 Turbo with a slope of 24/0.1 !

The XERUN motors, as I keep on telling people are not at all torquey like the GM's et al they like to be revved at Eastbourne on Sunday my car was so bloody quick (but alas it still fears corners / under skilled driver) whereas the consensus was 6.5:1 FDR I run mine at 7.75:1 has better brakes, much better acceleration (DDRS 1 !) and fairly screams down the straight. This is not from Guesswork but I spent two entire weeks (every Day) at Brooklands track testing so many settings and gearings with the Data Logger (Which we sell BTW) to gain this information. HW motors NEED to be geared about 15 to 20% Higher than other brands to get the best from them.

Motors are bloody awesome mine has now done about a year of being Totally abused and is still as strong as the day I took it out of the packet, great for racers (not so great for us sellers loll come on guys kill some motors :sneaky
:

Originally Posted by M7H
according to your theory, if you put boost to 0 degree, your car would not run?

On 0 degrees of timing, the motors KV rating come into account, this is the RPM it can reach without any boost timing added.
Actually, the KV ratings are the number you could look at, to give you an idea about the motors end RPM, under load. Boost timing doesn't affect that end RPM much... (Maybe +20%)


On this comment please ignore the KV rating on motors as this is the amount of RPM out of the box the motors will do per VOLT from the cells e.g. HW 13.5 2500kv equates to an unboosted 8.4x2500 = 21000 RPM Max. This was a very important piece of information back when we were running GTB's et al with no electronic boost profiles as it mainly equates to the amount of internal timing that has been added to the motor in question, with Boosted profiles this figure is now a pointless rather naughty, bit of marketing hype (C Ratings anyone?? )
You say Boost Timing doesn't affect the top end by much more than 20%, I refer you back to our results the 13.5 with a kV of 2500 has a non boosted RPM max of 21000 RPM, yet with Boost we are achieving 54000 RPM, Hobbywing have destruction tested 11.5's at over 100,000 RPM !!! So, on that point buddy you are barking up the wrong tree.

Originally Posted by Craig W
Hi guys

Don’t know if I put this in right part of forum but I was wondering if you could help looking for setting for Xtreme stock with x12 13.5t running on tight 20x30mtr carpet track and FDR ply
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ings-only.html

Originally Posted by ozzy-crawl
going to get jumped on as usual but here goes
worse thing to do is constantly balance charge lipo`s every time
I used to balance charge every time years ago, but was told by a guy in the battery industry the worst thing to do is balance them too much.
since then I only balance charge if the cells are more than .03 of a volt out
which is very very rare, I have had a couple packs for 3-4 years still going strong that have never been balanced.
mind you I check voltage every charge and very rarely run till low voltage kicks in and I take care of by packs.
lipo quality has come a long way in the last 4-5 years and are not as temperamental or fragile as they once were.
Am with you here mate I balance mine every 25 or so charges and they are rarely out of balance, but they feel soft when they have been balanced whereas the Batts feel punchier as they have a number of abusive runs on them.

Originally Posted by jay m
can some1 explain the difference between 119 mod, 528mod, and 205mod and which is the latest one. also with stock 323a to 211stock cheers
Will try....

518 excellent software, for those who are new to Hobbywing, easy to setup, no complications and idiot proof. Has fixed timing bands 1 to 9 and 1-8 Turbo settings.
ESC starts adding boost from start point, if you hit full throttle and the delay has been met then it will add turbo, if you haven’t hit full boost after turbo it will continue to add in timing until it is all spent. (Heavy finger = hot motor)
Good start point for 13.5/10.5 (HW Motor) is as follows:-

Boost Max
Turbo Max
Delay 0.4
Start RPM 3000
Supercharger Punch (15) at -5 or -6

Simples !!

119 is a progression from 518 but replaces fixed timing with steps of timing in much smaller increments with a maximum figure of 64 points, this is now spread between Boost Timing and Turbo timing e.g. 40 Boost 24 Turbo. We have 1 to 64 on boost and 1 to 40 on Turbo (our testing suggests that Boost is about 0.4 degrees per point and turbo is 0.2 degrees). The rate at which the boost comes in is adjustable once more from setting 15 but is now in 50RPM increments. The rate at which Turbo comes in is set by the Turbo Slope (e.g. 18/0.1). Early adopters of the 119 firmware expressed concern when converting settings over from 518 that the cars were too slow, you have to remember that with setting 15 we now have twice the number of steps so if you were using -6 (1000 RPM / Degree) you now need to be looking at 500 and so on.

Once more the same parameters have to be met for Turbo to engage(i.e. Full Throttle for prescribed delay time) and again if the total boost has not been added it will add it in on top of the Turbo once that had expired, so once more heavy fingers = Hot motors.

This is a much more adjustable firmware and it is difficult to translate one person’s settings to another person as the cars handle power differently, and we all have unique driving styles.

211/213 Latest and probably the best firmware’s (if used correctly) they are a progression from 119 and feature the exact same parameters as 119. With a HUGE Difference.......... the Timing is now split into 2 distinct 'Phases' Boost and Turbo, gone are the requirements for Full Throttle and delay, the ESC will add all the timing from the Boost phase BEFORE adding the Turbo Phase, so you can safely mash the throttle at the beginning of the straight and just let the ESC do the work, we have experimented with delay but it is pointless as the Boost phase must be complete before the Turbo will engage.

Excellent settings for EASTBOURNE / MARITIME (on 13.5T HW) are FDR around 7.1 to 7.5, Boost 40, Turbo 24, Slope 24, Delay 0.0, boost Acc (15) at 400 to 500. Just mash the throttle and GRIN !!

On these firmware’s Heavy fingered drivers among us can run with the certain knowledge that the ESC is doing all the complicated work.


Originally Posted by 2wdrive
yesterday my front bearing of my Xerun 10.5t motor gave way during the first final . So I only could limp a few rounds after which I had to pull it from the track. Thank god I had a new 10.5t motor in my bag so only had to unplug the motor and switch it out. Man I love those motor wire plugs!

Can I buy a replacement bearing direct from Hobbywing or does a store carry them? I looked around briefly but could not find them.
Give me a call on 01708 500 700 and I can sort you out with one or two as I have a brand new 2 run 21.5T which a Muppet blew up Sunday can pull the bearings from that if you like, Royal Oil is the best thing for Bearing lube, do not put 3 in 1 or other light general purpose oils in them, give them a blow over with airline and re lube them after every meeting and the bearings will last forever (refer to my abused motor above)

Originally Posted by xraydad
I agree they are a cool idea, can you get spare male connectors to fit onto spare motors at all?. If so, is there a part number I could have to order from Racers in exile, our importer?
Many thanks

Will make some enquiries, by the way we have replacement Fans, Caps, switched, Wires, Heat sinks and plastic cases for all the ESC's !!


Originally Posted by hacker
why is the Xtreme stock rated to motors 11.5 and over, whereas the 60amp version is rated to 8.5 onwards when both controllers are 60amp units?
We advise users with the latest Boosting packages to stay 10.5T and above as in most countries the Stock classes end at 10.5T, the ESC will run a 5.5T on Non Boosted original software but it isn't what they were designed for, for that get an XERUN 120A SD V2.1


Sorry I have been absent for a while, Hobbywing and Eagle Racing commitments as well as real life are taking up all my time, am still around to answer questions give me a ring or an email.

Tel: 01708 500 700
email: [email protected]
web: www.racersinexile.org.uk

Hope it all helps !

Cherry
xx

Last edited by cherry2blost; 07-04-2011 at 02:14 PM.
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