Originally Posted by
RL.2002
hi jilles,
what the difference between spec r and the tamiya gear diff??
Differences are: internal gear are different, spec-r is 10/22T , Tamiya 12,20
I think the volume of Tamiya geardiff is slightly more.
Originally Posted by
over gear
Jilles, question about your setup.
Why did you put o-rings in the shock when you can limit the shock length with the droop screw?
and what is the difference of running the camber link at #1 instead of #3 on the bulkhead? most setup i see use the #3 spot.
thanks
I mean the 2 orings I use inside the shock in the bottom. Camberlink #1 has more camber change, therefor more traction but less cornerspeed. Normally I use #1 for medium traction and in modified. #3 I use for high traction, big track and stock racing.
Originally Posted by
Vicko
so cutting the mount, well it give u more steering? or just plant the rear end better? is it only needed for Mod??
For medium traction with the cut motormount the car feels like it has more traction and is more consistant. Looking back to the Snowbirds race, high traction carpet track my car was awesome with the standard one-piece motormount.
Originally Posted by
Electro-MAX RC
Wondering if the fluid that comes with the new gear diff is useful?
Any idea what weight fluid? and does the new gear diff leak with 1000w in it?
Thanks
I'm not sure what oil Tamiya recommend for the geardiff but all teamdrivers are using oil from 700 - 2000 W
Originally Posted by
stefan Köhler
Hi jilles
Can you say might. What engine modified (Turns)are you doing in ETS R6 Andernach install the race .I´ve never driven there. And wanted to buy a new engine( Turns) for the race.
Thanks Reggie
I think I will start with a 4.5T motor in Andernach
Originally Posted by
CHICO1977
What Oil to run for Front Gear diff?
I have been using 300.000W and 500.000W which both work great. You can also try cleaning gum in the geardiff, disadvantage is that the gear wear more fast.
Originally Posted by
JoeyE
On a 416X, what is the best gearing for a BL17.5 Duo? What spur/pinion should be the best for the 416? People just tell me to run a certian ratio for the motor but they don't know what spur to tell me for a start.
Thanks~
I'm not familiar with 17.5T but I quess most racers gear them around 3.5 - 4.0 . I know from my friends 416, he uses spurgear 87 and pinion 44 to be around 4.0 gearing.
Originally Posted by
barts71m
Jilles,
Used your setup from latest ETS round, car was awesome on it. Only thing I changed was 3mm steering spacer and kept C blocks in the front, thank you again for posting
Am trying the Ride Gt300 Body, have you used this body? I used the HD Rip Wing that came with the body and car was very very tail happy off power, switched to Protoform wing and was much better. Do you have any tips for HD Rip Wing wing?
Thanks great! I recommend to use the lip wing for the Ride body. The Ride body has a lot of steering so the lip wing will give more stable rearend.
Originally Posted by
Nick Groves
Question on non boosted 17.5 racing.
In a post quite a few pages back a question was brought up about changes made for stock racing. You said you would go to stiffer springs and about it. Could you explain what the stiffer springs will do to the car? And would you also want to start with a little thicker oil? What springs should I switch to. Currently running blue and yellow Tamiya springs with 425 weight oil.
I know there is a chart but can't remember where it's at for all the spring rates of all the manufacturers. Anyone have this?
With stiffer spring I recommend, HPI gold and Pink. Also shock oil around 600 should work good. I'm not sure about the spring rates.
Jilles