just an update,got tank 7 through seems like it all fell in place. running rich but was able to tune a little so it sounds smooth. I will say that we really don't need to make a big change from flush on the lsn/hsn. I am 1/4 turn in on the hsn and maybe 3/4 on lsn set idle/ perfect. The old ways of adjusting our go-tecs is out the window. so below is a list of mistakes I made in order.
1-I opened the package and immediately felt dizzy causing me to babel!
2-I disassembled the engine to flush out any metal debris[not necessary]
3-reassembled engine without sealing like I do on every engine.
4-thought I had engine heated enough to start. did not
5-when piston locked in place took screw driver to force flywheel to get piston back down. While talking to my son realized I had turned fly wheel 360 on crank.
6-disassembled whole engine thinking c-clip had fell out. what really happened was I needed to heat engine more plain and simple.
7-needles do not need to be moved that far from flush. on all my go-tecs and mg-66 the needle settings are exact for all engines.hsn1/2 turn in/lsn 1-1/2 turns in give or take a few hours. Like I have stated before when I go to the races I usually go alone so all my engines MUST idle for long periods,no-one wants to try to adjust your equipment.
so I hope this helps all the people who get the new engine and think they have a problem you don't it's most likely the nut behind the wheel!!
But if you go back to our old engines every thing that I thought and tried would have been true,not so with new engine.