Originally Posted by
Benzaah
Sorry but from my experience this is wrong. I ordered 2 pair of each and have a set of 8 and 10 spares as I use both pair of 6mm on the steering links end of the knuckle and on the servo saver and I use the 8mm front and 10mm rear. I use the open ball joint ends for the wheel ends of the camber links and the closed ball joints everywhere else. With a little shaving of the rear open ball joint ends you can fit 5mm of shim under the rear wheel to really lock in the back end especially if you are using a gear diff.
You can use 6mm front if you run no shim and you can use 8mm rear if you run less than 3mm of shim there. Any less thread and you will find out the hard way that the knuckle and the toe block can break easily. i will post a pic later as i was a victim of this on the weekend as i left the 8mm ball end in and used a 1.5mm shim and my car broke when hit by a racing incident on the first corner of the 2nd A main
Something I discovered on the weekend is that you can't achieve the '11 kit setup with 10mm studs on the back. The studs are +1mm higher than the captured balls, so to achieve the '11 kit rear end of 4mm/L you need to use 8mm stud with 3mm spacers. The 10mm stud hit the uni with <3.5mm spacers.
It's also something to consider on the front of the car, if you use the studs you should compensate for the added height by removing the 1mm shim on the knuckle.