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Thread: RC10B4.1 FT/WC
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Old 03-04-2011 | 12:57 PM
  #1901  
Chris Jarosz
Tech Master
 
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,480
From: Las Vegas, NV
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Originally Posted by Jowers
I feel like I'm coming off as a whiner or smart a$$ but... you work for AE

For the rest of us... $40 a pop

Ideally, I want it to last longer than a few race days...

Which they normally do just frustrating when you get that occasional "bad batch" or whatever... probably best just to make it a habit to have some sand paper on hand...
You're not coming off as a whiner or a smart ass, just a customer with a valid complaint, and that's why I'm here. To help.


Anyways, you shouldn't have to replace everything. When I rebuild my diff, all I replace is my diff rings. I run the #6584 ceramic diff balls though. They are $5 more but last extremely long. I've been running the same ones in my diff since I built my B4.1 which was right before the 2010 Nats. The thrust, at least mine, never seems to wear but if you want to replace them you can, again without buying a full diff. If you really want your thrust super smooth, get the 18T carbide diff balls, 21116.

I always carry sand paper with me just because you never know what you'll need it for. I sand my rings though for the extra smooth feeling, not because un-sanded ones suck.

The only time I ever replace my outdrives, is when I put new CVA bones on. And the only time that happens is when I do a full rebuild, normally before a series race, big race, or if I've been running ALOT (6 days a week for 4 weeks straight or something like that).

If you aren't replacing your outdrives or CVA's a diff rebuild should cost around $5 or so.
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