Thanks for the inputs regarding the V2 lowered arm....and just the pass weekend, we stocked 40 pairs of lower V2 arms and 40 pairs of the rear uprights.........and I am looking forward to sell them all pretty quick at the track (cause almost every V2 user stock at least 2 more package JUST in case)
Like you guys said the old V1 rear turnbuckle design DOES pop out when there is hard impact.....I never broke 1 single piece of parts from the V1 but plenty of times the rear ball pops...I think thats how it save all those rear arms and rear turn knuckles...
V2 is more like MTX3 710 design....and I think the parts that will break easily is the lower arm, lower pins and the arm holders...
But again....NO ONE tell you to touch the board...if you touch the board, you pay the price.....
About PIVOT balls...........$8 for 4 new pivot balls, probably the cheapest pivot balls you can find in all 200mm TC car (compare to $8 EACH for Serpent).....and after testing and seeing those Titanium, aluminium LW or whatever you want to call that pivot balls................the stock metal pivot balls is the best....the last modification I did was using HPI PROCEED pivot ball.......the thread is perfect match with AE but the ball is a hair bigger, so I have to dremel a bit inside the hub.....put the NTC3 on the track....1 touch with the board, it sheared off in the middle..wasted the cheap $12 (each) pivot ball...
After 2 years of racing NTC3, I realized 1 theory on NTC3 pivot ball issue (and you guy should ask you the same question before you buy those GPM Lustford or AE titaniunum stuff...)
DO you want to finish the A main with 4 front bented pivot balls or DO you want to have snapped/broken titanium pivot or aluminium pivot balls and get a DNF...?
I have at least 20 plus bented pivot balls....but since, I rarely have any DNF because of the broken pivot balls.
Last edited by Rookie Solara; 05-11-2004 at 01:51 PM.