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Old 12-26-2010, 06:18 PM
  #13948  
caltek1
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I run a very tight MO5 ball diff in my MO5L and the car goes in a straight line. I also have the complete Tamiya hop-up steering rack on the car and MO5 alloy front uprights. Initially my car would not pull straight but then when the car loosened up the car is now very drivable, as is my MO5M similiar setup.

I do run 1-2 degrees front toe out which seems to settle the car down. I have seen Bruces car on the track and his car looked very well mannered and handled like a TC, so he must have something setup right.

I think that the MO5 just requires a different type of setup than the MO3. The car takes some time to get to work and be at the pointy end. I know when I used the original plastic steering system on the MO5 that I shimmed some of the slop out of it and used bearings in place of the bushes.

A spool and a very tight ball diff,(whether MO5 or TAO 3), will work in the MO5 and still run straight. It comes down to car setup and ensuring that you have no binding between the outdrives and the universals.

Hopefully I will post some pictures of my cars in the next few days. Both are blinged and setup differently. I personnally prefer the MO5L and have had the most success with this car. It presently has a very tight TAO3 ball diff fitted and seems to go alright.

Not sure why your steering rack/system is so bad. If it is not returning to centre I would be checking my servo saver and making sure that I was using the correct servo adaptor. I have made the mistake of using one that I thought was correct and caused all sorts of steering problems. I changed to a Kimborough and all was good again. I also use Futaba servo's in my car and as I have the MO5Pro car, I use the Tamiya high torque servo saver.

Hope you get your steering sorted, as the MO5 is such a great car.

Regards,

Calvin.
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