Originally Posted by
houston
some of the fuels being made troday are NOT being made for engine longevity but rather performance at any cost . they are using high synthetic to castor oil ratios and some even use 100% synthetic oils which requires a drastically leaner needle setting than other fuels with some natural castor oil.
another thing , i get engines in here that run many different fuels so i get to see first hand what how much of what kind of fuel does what or doesnt do what to the internals of your micromotor . from what i have seen , i have deduced that 100% synthetic oil fuel is NOT good for your engine , i repeat NOT good for your engine !!!
i know of 3 companies at least that use full synthetic oils in their fuel .
so i dont know about you but i have to purchase my engines , i am not 100% sponsored by anybody but myself!!
and i would like to protect my engines
i use byrons 30/9 pro driver fuel , rbmods after run oil ,kyosho air filter oil , it seems to work and work well
ok...for the record...1.) I'm no where near sponsored by ANYONE accept for my own 2 beat'n and scared hands so I know all about having to pay for each and every racing item I run...it would just be to much fun to be a sponsored driver!!!!
and 2.) I generally DO run Byrons (either Pro or Race...I break in with Race for atleast 1 gallon) the only draw back to that is, up here, in order for me to go down to the LHS and just grab a gallon, I'm throw'n $50 down for Pro and $45 down for Race Blend....so I talked to a friend of mine and got a gallon of Sidewinder ALOT cheaper than that...and concidering my motor was on at least its 7th if not 8th gallon it wouldn't hurt anything to give it a try see'n as how I only needed it for 2 races then shelf it and rebuild it for the winter as to have another back up for next year. I just posted my findings on here cuz it DID give me fuel mileage AND runtime....kinda goes with the name of the thread huh?
OH, AND YES I AM A SMARTA$$, JUST DON'T TAKE IT AS DISRESPECT BY ANY MEANS!!!!!!
