Originally Posted by
speedin
1. My shocks seem like they don't want to compress all the all the way. I get to about 3/4 compression where the chassis almost hits the ground, then it gets harder. It will compress all the way, but the last 1/4 of compression is harder. I have to really push hard on the truggy to make the chassis hit the ground. The shocks are not over filled, I filled them up to the side of the shock, and put a dab of shock oil the cap. It seems that the rubber shock boot get bunched up when at full compression and makes it harder for the shock to compress all the way.
2. Wheel slop. My rear wheels have what is seems like excess slop. I can move the wheel in and out a decent amount, and up and down (although not as much as in and out). At first I thought it was due to having plastic hub carriers. Last night I replaced the hub carriers with aluminum ones, and rebuilt the hubs. Yet I still have this wheel slop. It seems to me that there should be a tiny washer put in between the cva and the hub carrier to prevent this...
I have owned two RC8Te's and two RC8Be's.
1. The shocks not wanting to compress all the way is almost always a case of too much oil inside. If when you compress the shock as far as you say you can, and it rebounds very quickly, you have too much oil. You wouldn't think it would happen because the oil inside can obviously go through the piston holes, but an overfilled shock will actually be nearly impossible to completely compress. The boot will not cause that fast rebound, because it does not have nearly as much force behind it as the compressed oil and compressed bladder inside the shock. Watch this video on how to build shocks:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rixBJ...layer_embedded
2. This slop problem is fairly common in RC8's. I experienced it in my latest RC8Be's CNC aluminum front knuckles. There was approximately .75mm of a gap that allowed the outdrive to slide back and forth inside the bearings. The only way to fix that would be to install shims between the outdrive and the large, inner 12x18 bearing. But in my cars, I never installed shims, because frankly, I didn't consider it to be enough of a problem to go to the trouble of finding and ordering any. If you do order some shims, try to find ones with as small a face as possible (distance between the inner edge and outer edge). Too large, and you run the risk of binding by virtue of pushing the outer edge of the shim into the bearing. Ideally, your shim should have the same face size as that of the bearing's inner race.