Originally Posted by
Granpa
No need to apologize Pete. You're one of the "good guys" in my book.. You and I are just like everyone else and just get a little "excited" once in awhile.
Please, this wasn't sarcasm. I know next to nothing about brushless motors and am planning on using a 21.5 if it fits the budget. Frankly, they terrify me. People come to the track with lap top computers and the lingo they converse in sounds like Greek to me. What's a turbo or tubo and what damned blinking light?? What the f--- is the computer for. Pete, this isn't aimed at you, but there is a certain elitism about them. You don't dare ask the above type questions at the track cause you will receive the brush off, be treated like an idiot or get a total snow job. Yeah, I know, why post it here so that everyone knows you're an idiot ------ about brushless motors. Well maybe a few other things also------ like women, politics and religion.
If you're planning on running brushless in a zero-timing (spec ESC) class then 98% of the complexity is removed from the equation. Whereas many people have brand loyalties, the difference between the variety of ROAR-approved brushless motors is small. Hit the boards one time and you've negated any advantage a certain brand of motor may have had, whereas in open ESC classes you could pit for tires and still make up the gap to someone running a zero-timing ESC.
Certain state-of-the-art ESCs, such as the Tekin RS and Novak Kinetic, can do all of the timing advance/boost/turbo wizardry but are also legal to run in zero-timing spec mode when configured to do so. This condition is indicated by an easily-teched constantly blinking light on the ESC -- that's the damned blinking light.
So, with such ESCs you can run the spec classes but still have the freedom to go gonzo in the open ESC classes as well if you so desire.
If not, there are a number of more affordable brushless ESCs on the market that don't have the timing advance features. You can pick up a used Novak GTB for cheap and it will be as competitive (and reliable) as any other ESC in spec class.
Brushless motors are super low maintenance. They consist of the outer stator, which is where the windings are, an inner rotor (basically a cylindrical magnet) that is the spinning part, and two conventional ball bearings the rotor rides on. There is no electrical connection between the fixed part and the moving part like there is in a brushed motor. Most brushless motor brands either partially or completely enclose the bearings so they don't get fouled up quickly. Many brushless motors don't have any sort of opening to atmosphere at all, further reducing maintenance.
Brushless motor maintenance consists of opening up the can once in a while (a long while), sliding out the rotor, blowing out any dust that may have gotten in there, cleaning/oiling the bearings, and putting it back together. If you really feel like spending more money you can put ceramic bearings in, but it's not necessary. I'm sure someone will point out that there are different diameter rotors available, which is a tuning option, but IMO it's not a big lever arm, just something to fiddle with once you get bored since you no longer have to spend much time on motor maintenance.
Let me know if there's any way at all I can help you. I may even open up about religious women politicians!
