Hmm I just did a marathon read through the first 80 pages of this thread, a few of my questions have been answered in that. Other stuff also looks pretty recognisable. In addition to the above post:

- The kingpins slightly bind in the lower suspension arms balls as well. As of now however, they're not dampened yet with high viscosity 1/8th scale diff fluid/kingpin lube. Ordered it, still has to arrive. I may give this some attention when I rebuild the front. Polish them maybe.

- The servo saver is slightly offset from the center line (Ko Propo #30048 PDS-951ICS ICS 6.0V Digital FET Servo). This first became apparent when I was doing the initial setup, I had to use different turnbuckle lengths for neutral toe, with the servo saver sitting straight up. Having read through half this thread it came by. Still have to find a way to accurately measure it, probably from the bottom. So, I'm supposed to fix this by slotting the servo mounting holes in the chassis? Not the easiest of machining by hand I'm afraid :).

- During assembly I also noticed the outer right hub ball bearing has to transfer the axial diff load force, how many guys changed this setup to use an actual thrust bearing? If needed at all, the design should work as it is, shouldn't it?

- I still have to check tweak. No clue yet how to properly do this, though to be honest I haven't really looked it up yet either. I guess there are plenty of topics of this around. I doubt its far off, considering how electronics are placed.

- In relation to the above, its hard to check if the preload of both side springs is the same. The retainer being made from plastic doesn't seem to help, it doesn't seem very consistent/accurate.

I've driven the car for the first time last thursday, at the local track. First time I drove any RC car since 11 years, was fun. First run I probably had way too much steering travel, inner wheel probably hooked. I reduced it to 67%, I might dial it to 80% next week. (100% being the wheel being 3mm off the lower suspension arm/2mm off the steering turnbuckle ball joint). Also, the track being rather small with alot of 180 degree turns, people adviced me to use drag brake, which I'm not really keen on using to be honest. It would be an easy way to consistantly brake for the tight turns. However, In my opinion, on larger tracks, one would like to be able to roll the car through high speed sweeping sections, brake manually for tight turns, am I right? I think I'd rather learn to drive "the right way" so it won't bite me back in the ass if I'll try and do some races elsewhere. I still have to replace the default ESC wires with some black 13AWG TQ ones or so. I had the impression the ones displayed were preventing the pod from moving freely, causing the car to snap to the right under acceleration at times. I think they hit the body. I also need to get a 150mm sensor cable. Apart from that, so far though, building went fine, the car ran great :). I just looked up the Jaco site, just ordered the fronts and rears in the middle of the lists (lilac front/gray rear). I soaked the rears, the inner half of the fronts. Didn't really hit anything hard, but for convenience, I might buy a second kit for spare parts.