Old skool. LOL
I think spending time on 1:1 cars had me rethink some of my my previous thoughts on suspension setup. I know its not 100% relative, but can be used as guidelines for experimentation.
With that said, i went beyond the usual rebound limiting droop screws, and use internal springs. Because they rely on consistent rideheight for consistent results, they work best with one tire size (either foam or rubber).
I have longer progressive inner springs for rubber tires, and short linear springs for foam tires. The progressive springs are actually made for pan car front suspension kingpins. I have had them since 2001 and dont remember who made them.
Purple, blue and orange are the most common i use, laid out hardest to softest.
I use longer .56 shafts. In place of the old inner foam bobbin, i use custom Delrin stoppers 3mm thick to hold the o rings in and act as a guide for the shock shaft (modifying the current black stopper would probably work well, but it wasnt available back then). Its thickness with the longer shaft gave me the room i needed to use the long internal springs and shims (if needed), and keeps the piston out of the "air" in a bladderless setup.
Admittedly the setup works best (for me) with the altered shock positions on my custom F/R shock towers, but it also works just fine on the standard Tc3/4 towers that i started using them on.
Anyways, you can imagine how time consuming and difficult the learning curve could be using such a setup. But the results are great... and make this old tub car handle fantastic!
