It is basically just the 'lightweight setup parts' from the standard team b4 lightweight setup but stuck with the factory rear hub and front blocks (25 degree). I also use the reedy 709 2s hardcase pack like they do, so you might want to add weight to get to that pack's weight if it is under. In all honesty, it probably doesn't matter -- you can probably make up for any difference in lipo weight by just fine tuning the roll axis (front and rear ride height) by a mm + or - on either end, just don't stray too far from the 22-24mm range.
The lightweight setup I speak of is this one:
http://67.199.85.166/racing/setups/b...crcrc_2009.pdf
They drilled a 4th hole on the rear shock tower, but that is not needed on new kits or new replacement towers as the holes have all been moved 'inward' one 'place' so the inside hole on new towers and kits is the same as basically drilling the 4th hole on older kits. I just run the inside on the new tower.
I stuck with 25 degree blocks because I run on a small tight technical track. I stuck with the factory rear hubs because I didn't have the .5 degree hubs to try and decided I would only move to them if it still needed some help, and it didn't seem to. The rear hubs are really considered optional and not required generally.
Other than that, I generally run one mm lower in the front on ride height, ending up with 23mm front and 24mm rear.
On my castle esc, I run 30% drag brake, 100% total brake (dialed down to around 40-46% at the radio depending on conditions), and 50% traction control. These things don't translate directly into values that work on other controllers, so I'll explain how I arrived at what I have (note that 40% total brake is nowhere close to 30% drag brake... 40% total brake locks the tires up cold in the air, where as 30% drag brake barely slows them down at all when the throttle comes off). I go out with drag brake off and 100% total brake on the controller (esc). I then test total brake on the straight and dial it down at the radio so that I can use full brake without the car getting all sideways. I then verify in the corners that, if I want to, I can whip the rear end around by initiating a slide with full brakes -- if I cannot, I dial brake back up until I can and get used to how much total brake I can use before it becomes sketchy on the straight. Next I dial drag brake on the esc to around half total drag brake capability and see if that makes me want to always spin out in the corners or not -- basically I try braking before the corner and turning in at neutral and letting drag break slow me down IN the corner. If it spins out, it is too much drag brake, and I dial it down on my esc. Once I get to the point where I don't spin out or fight drag brake in the corner, that's where it is left FOREVER, unless conditions change so dramatically that I need less drag brake in the future, at which point, I adjust it back down and LEAVE IT, even if the track gets sticky. I want the car to drive the same but have enough drag brake that it doesn't spin out on the loosest of days at the track. I adjust total brake on a daily basis if the track gets really tacky or really dry -- drag brake stays the same.
The way my car ends up is at the end of the straight, before the sweeper corner, I just go a little wide, then throttle of and turn in and re-apply throttle as the car can make the sweeper corner, then when I reach a tighter non sweeping corner, I come in tight with a little bit of push brake (with my finger on the brake) and transition off of brake smoothly to throttle as I apex the corner.
IMHO, drag brake is what makes a 2wd worth driving now that brushless is here. 2wd without drag brake is frustratingly different than driving anything else.
I dial traction control in by first turning it off and seeing what the car will do without TC, then turning it up until the car feels like it is being held back on clearing 'blip jumps' or getting on the power, then dial it back down to just before that point. It makes a huge difference in the corners in 2wd imho.