Durability improvements for Stock- Use the lightened steel outdrives up front with a slipper spool. Plastic outdrives, plastic axles (used with a front one-way or spool) and a ball diff are fine in the rear.
- Use the Aluminum bones up front. These are thick enough not to bend and will not crack and fail like the plastic ones at the outer pivot pin when using a spool.
- I took the opportunity to install 4 degree Caster Blocks: use an extra thin shim between the wheel bearings added to the aluminum spacer. Now you can really snug the wheels on without developing an axial load on the bearings. (side to side). This reduces friction.
- I use a thin layer of blue Loctite paste on the upper camber link ball stud and the lower kingpin screw. What this does is locks the screw and flanged bushing into a solid piece. It no longer works around in the crashes and stays put. If the part is difficult to remove later heat it with your soldering iron about 20 seconds. The loctite will liquefy and the screw or ball stud will remove easily.
A couple of clearance checks. My steel outdrives were thicker than the plastic ones. I needed to take a little off the plastic that supports the inner camber link ball stud. Other wise they rubbed and were difficult to install in the case.
It seems the steering link was rubbing the drive shaft. I took a little off its diameter on the top, but will replace it with the small Associated ball cups and a thin tie rod.