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Old 06-09-2010 | 08:52 AM
  #10857  
LOSIRACER77
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Originally Posted by grizz1
Sounds like an early clutch. Try the 1.1 springs as recommended.
Other thing it could be is your brakes are binding - ie they are on at idle, and are not releasing fully until the throttle is opened up some. Check that when your throttle slide is fully closed your brakes are completely free and the car will roll. Reset your brake rods etc if required.



3 Port with an 086 should be a weapon. Couple of things-
If you have the long needle carb, you are most likely too lean on the HSN. This will kill the power and make it run hot, plus lean bog at low tank levels. Combined with this you may well be way too rich on the bottom end with a too wide an idle gap as well. This also applies to the short needle carb in most cases.
Reset your idle gap to .7mm max. Long needle set HSN to flush, LSN to 1.5 turns in from flush and tune from there. Short needle carb set the HSN to 1 turn in from flush and the LSN 1.5 turns in from flush and tune from there, being careful not to go too lean on the top end in both cases.
IMPORTANT - If the motor won't idle at .7mm idle gap, lean the bottom end needle until it will idle - DO NOT ADJUST THE IDLE GAP. This is where the problem starts and you end up with a big idle gap and rich bottom end, which means you need to run the top end really lean to compensate.

Secondly, you may have an air leak somewhere. Motor or fuel system.

Run stock shimming for 30%. This is 1 x .3mm alloy shim and 2 x .1mm brass shims. Total shim stack of .5mm. Run a medium temp plug. You should be seeing 9 min easy with that pipe. Lack of run time is coming from the rich bottom end / wide idle gap I would say.
what is the measurement on the needle or what do i look for on the needle for long or short? the motor only came with 1 shim?? and i think that its like u said cause the idle gap is over 1mm. thank you grizzs!!!!
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