Originally Posted by bigmatt

Well Grizz I took the advice you posted above for the RB mod 3 port I was breaking in and my MG-66. I had the engines out of the car and reset the idle gaps and needles to flush. I was surprised to see how much in fact leaning the lsn effected the idle gap. Needless to say they both run like rapped apes. I didn't know the mg could have more power,but my god that thing is wicked! As you know I really love my 3 port. Modded it is very fast. Since my tune was way off on the mg I thought the 3 port was almost as fast as the mg. No!!!!!! And I tried the 2 pipes on them. The go 2072[mg-66 loves it] and the dynamite 086[3 port likes it] When I had the 086 on the mg it felt snappier down low on a run up too double-triples,but ran out of leg. And that's a top end pipe. The 086 on my 3 port makes it a small wild animal all around. The 2072 pipe on the 3 port tamed it all around,but still had good top end but mileage suffered. The mg-66 with the 2072 pipe is giving me 12:20's per tank,and the 3 port 13:30's+best 14:02. I am going to install the smallest restrictor I have for the mg,along with some softer clutch springs . Only to get some traction. My friend watching the car with the mg in it said it would go a hell of a lot faster if we could get the power to the ground. WE have 2 long straights on the track and the tires would just spin the whole way until I let off the throttle. When I was triggering the throttle at half -to full it was hooking up and like a rocket. But we both know how hard it is to do that all the time The only other problem is the car wants to wheely. It's going at a good pace,hit a little bump and up comes the front. I can see the front wanting to pop up when ever I get on the gas. Any suggestions?

Originally Posted by grizz1

Ahhh - Matt's liking that MG66, I can tell