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Old 05-24-2010, 05:40 PM
  #3264  
YoDog
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Originally Posted by Wolf Hobbies
The issue with the dogbones is hard to nail down. Part of the problem is selective memory (I'm talking about myself here too). We see when the dogbone breaks but we usually don't see where it got its "fatal injury" I often hear from people that: "It broke when I hit the brakes" This is a clue that it was actually hurt some time before. Both the aluminum and steel dogbones will bend on impact (or torque in one direction). You won't realize it but the dogbone just died. As soon as it bends back it will break. That's why you can smack the wall or tangle with another car under power but nothing breaks. It won;t actually let go until it is stressed in the oposite direction. TM quietly made a change in the steel dogbones to strengthen them. The CVD pivot cylinder (I just made that name up because TM calls it a pin) was reduced in diameter from 3.5mm to about 3.2mm. This leaves more "meat" on the dogbone at the point where it usually fractures. I honestly have never broken a dogbone. But some people go through a bunch of them. Part of it is my driving style (very conservative... another word for slow) but the other is that I set the car up for a lot of steering so that I don't have to dial in as much steering angle. Part of the problem is that the E4 has more steering angle available than most cars. The downside is that it isn't really available for use or you will hammer the axles on hard turns. This is especially true in mod because you have almost 1 HP to apply to those little shafts. If you have a setup system that allows you to measure steering angle derees it would be interesting to know what that number is.

As for the difference in the rear toe angle it could be a bent pin or a deformed pivot cup (503120). The plastic piece can be damaged after repeated hits. It also could be the 1.5 to 2.5 holder for the cups. If it was improperly machined it could cause a problem. I have seen this issue with the Kfactory part but never the stock part. The way I found out about this was half way down the straight the car would drift to one side. No matter what I did to check the trim it would always steer in one direction at speed. I replaced bearings and swapped parts but it would always do it. What I think is happening is that once the car gets past a certain speed the rear wing produces so much downforce that the rear starts to steer the car. I will bring extra parts on Thursday so that we can isolate the issue.
Thanks for the input Wolf.

The pivot cups were the first to go since I had brand new spares and installed the alum pivot balls as well since I've been holding onto them for the rebuild.
It looks like I need to go over the rear end with a fine tooth caliper.
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