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Old 05-08-2010 | 08:31 PM
  #3196  
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YR4Dude
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Originally Posted by vinny73
Quick question. I have an E4RS, Tekin RS ESC, Fantom Duo17.5 Motor. IDR is 2.0588. Running a Mazda Speed 6 and R9 body. Run on average, a track that's like 90'x40'. Usually like an 80' straight at the end of a long sweeper. I have access to the Hotwire. What is a recommended Final Drive Ratio for a Semi Novice driver. You know, suck but not as bad as you used to suck. Last 2 races I havent come in last and that's with my old LRP Sphere ESC. 1st time running a Tekin. Also , for such a small, low/medium traction asphalt parking lot track, What is a recommended gear selection for said FDR + or - pinions and spurs. I have a 104 and a 110 64p spur allready to work with.


Now, I have a couple good setups for said track. But not with a Fantom Duo 1 motor. Not the Duo 2. 17.5 When my friend and I went to put the 203?, the latest software on my esc, this is where the idiot part comes in,..... I forgot my sensor cable for my motor and we still setup the base settings and applied those. It would not let us save the advanced settings for like turbo until we saved the basic settings 1st. So we did. Then we did the hotrod part of the settings, timing, turbo, delay. If I remember correctly, we did a delay time of .3, an rpm of 5442/ 20k I believe. Now, we saved the settings, calibrated the radio. I got the cable put once I got my car home and started it up. It started flashing 1,2 and 6,7. Wrong motor type. Okay, So I check to see what it is and it at profile 3. Brushless/F,B,R. Well if it were profile 6(custom settings), why would I not have turbo? Does the ESC need to be redone with the advanced settings now that I put the sensor cable on? I am assuming for some reason it is running brushless uncensored, when it's actually got the sensor cable on and it's not allowing the turbo to kick in. I was running a FDR of 4.26 with my LRP and it was quick. Not fast. Having been told that with the Tekin, you need to gear as if you were running a 13.5 motor. Hence a higher FDR or around 6.0 to start.

Once we finished programming it at work, since we knew I didn't have the sensor cable, we didn't wanna chance giving in a couple fistfulls of throttle. So we just turned it off and when I got home was when I put the cable on and discovered I had no turbo.

Sorry for such a long story but I wanted to give you as much info as I could think of to hopefully give you a better idea of what I did, tried, and failed to accomplish. As well as a possible solution. Thanks for those who read this and any help would be much appreciated. Got 1 week before I get to race my allmost new car, brand new esc with hotrod software. I ran against a few locally and I could be in the lead and by the end of the straight, a tekin guy would just hit turbo and leave me like I was standing still!!!! SO I BOUGHT ONE. Thanks, Vinny
You need to gear somewhere between 5.8 - 6.0 FDR. Run as much timing boost as you can, run your turbo around 15. Don't add any timing advance on the motor! I did this and it made it very hot. Use the speed control to add timing advance. Look at the Tekin thread for further details but a good start RPM is about 4000 - 5000 rpm and a good end RPM is about 15000 - 18000. Its been said that a higher end rpm makes the motor run cooler. Also try using the 3.0 ramp rate instead of 2.0

Originally Posted by TeamWTF
Hey all,

I have an E4RS with std rear hubs and also have kfactory 1.5deg aluminium hubs siting here. Will this give me an extra 1.5deg of rear toe? What are the standard hubs???

Cheers
Phill
The car is designed to have either 1.5deg or 2.5deg inboard toe. Some prefer to have the toe done on the outboard hence at the rear hub/upright. However, the car doesn't offer 0deg toe on the suspension pin holders as an option so you're stuck with a minimum of 1.5deg inboard when you use the 1.5deg outboard hub for a total of 3deg. Really unless you need that much rear toe then go for that, but for most applications the factory 1.5deg & 2.5deg settings are good enough for most set-ups.
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