Originally Posted by
COBRARACING
Nothing lasts forever but if your stupid enough not to follow instructions you will kill anything no matter what .The problem in the past with alot of the Oem stuff was that the brand name would say its 120 amp but it can handle 200 amp .now that to me is false info and it is really stupid .follow instructions and nothing will go wrong nothing more said.
It it says 120 amp that is the peak the burst current is different all together .
if you use 11.5T ,you can try this setting :
9=7
12=8 or 9
13=4
14=5
15=4
FDR : 6.4
if you use 10.5 ,you can try this setting:
9=6
12=7 or 8
13=4
14=5
15=4
FDR : 6.4
if your using 13.5T you can try this setting
9=8
12=8-9
13=4
14=5
15=4
just some setup ideas
You don't need to flame me, it was a only a joke. A coincidence really... HW said "TNT" and then the "grenading" comment, it was really something so appropriately comic! I have PAID for my equipment, so I'm allowed to point to a good joke, when I see one!
Anyway, back to business:
I tested briefly the newest SW with mixed results.
First of all, I set it up as per the HW PDF recommendations, that is:
9. Option 8
12. Option 7
13. Option 3
14. Option 5
15. Option 2
I didn't have your settings with me, at the track, so I went on by the pdf...
I remind that I run a 1/5 motorcycle with Xerun 60A and Nosram 13.5T sensored, geared in the longish (as I already wrote in the other thread).
Well... At first I did a medium throttle warm up lap, it all went fine, then on the main straight (60m plus...) I open the throttle fully and the bike wheelied to God and tumbled! It caught me by surprise, to be honest! I didn't expect it to do so with a "humble" 13.5T!!!! I turned around and started running the main straight up and down, doing wheelies! It was huge fun! Anyway, I remembered why I went to the track (there were no... spectators, as well!) so I started lapping...
At one time, after about 3-4 minutes, I drove the bike to the pits, to do some tinkering with the suspension. I didn't shut off the Rx or Tx, just did my work for a few seconds, then sent it out in the track and it was going SLOWLY! Slowly as in 27T tin-can brushed! What the heck?!
I returned the bike to the pits, lcd card in hand, I reran everything once, then did the Tx/Rx settings again and sent it out. It again had huge (wheelie!) power, so I started lapping normally... and carefully due to the newfound power! At around 3 minutes, it slowed down again. The battery I was using was a hardcase 3200/20C from rcmart. I removed the battery, let everything cool down for a few minutes, not that the motor was hot to touch, but anyway, I had to make sure everthing on the chassis was still tightly bolted and visually intact...
So, new battery installed, a Turnigy 3300/30C, the bike is going fast for three minutes, then it slows again. Turn it off, rerun the settings with lcd card, rerun the Tx/Rx settings, send it out, it is fast again!
I did it three times with this battery, with capacity to spare...
What gives here?!!!
I have to say, I installed the FW from my computer at home, twice, as usual with the latest FW's just in case, and had set the battery cut off at 3.0V.
I never really ran out of battery juice, or had any "thermal" issued with either the ESC or the motor. They were both warm, but easy to touch, and are both in the airflow, plus the ESC fan is always working.
Any ideas, anyone?!!!