Originally Posted by
Razathorn
Welp, I flamed out 3 times in the main yesterday with my b5. I think my idle just needed to be raised, but I haven't had a chance to really investigate other than raising the idle in the pits after coming off the stand and evaluating the idle drop. Idle drop was good, could have been leaner on the bottom probably, but when it dropped all the way down, it didn't want to stay running until I raised the idle. Thing wanted to die instantly after coming off the throttle when it was a little rich. Might be plug too, or exhaust seals, or perhaps clutch bearings -- just really haven't investigated at all as I had to go drive my electric car for the next main.
I'm betting that my low end needle and idle screw need some love'n as they're still set at the same place they were on the first race tune on the first time I tuned the motor after finishing break-in. My guess is that it has run in a little and I should have updated the tune by this time.
Ron's tuning guide 101, if you have not read it page back and find it, it will save you some pain. If your engine runs fine one day and then the next race day you fire it up and the idle is low, this is your motor telling you something (namely the air density) has changed. Do not just crank on your idle screw, leave it alone. Rather lean your low speed needle a couple of hours to bring your idle back up to where it should be. Then toss your car on the track and warm it up and do a couple of laps at race pace. Now adjust your HS to give you the top that you need. When you do this it will also affect your LS (hence idle). Blip the throttle and let the engine come back to idle. Do not adjust you idle stop screw rather adjust your LS (leaner=higher idle, richer=lower idle). Once you get your idle adjusted properly again you are done and your engine is set and ready to race! This whole process should take no more than 5 minutes or so to do.
Regards,
Ron