Originally posted by sean
dont get me wrong Sands-i am not arguing for the sake of argument. i only question things so i can learn. i am curios and question things by nature. and i do appreciate when someone is more knowledgable in the way mechanical things work. as you have stated,you are very qualified and i thank you for your input. i do understand about the tolerances. my point was when i am trying to understand the dynamics of how my rear link works and what could go wrong and someone says to compensate with steering trims,it stilll leaves me in the dark. and i admitt my driving style is in need of improvement
i just dont want to get anyone angry-i am only trying to understand. thanks,sean
I don't mean to disparage your thoughts - just that if we are going to get into a very technical discussion, we should do it via PM.
My $0.02 is to get it as close as a good set of calipers will allow you to get it. The key is to not have
ANY binding in the rear end. That will cause more problems then a 1/2* alignment problem.
If you run the CRC solid side links do this to ensure a free rear end.
1. polish the pivot balls with a light auto polish - same way king pins are polished.
2. build the rear end per the instructions.
3. with the football loose and the links in place - but the pivot ball properly adjusted (free but no play) set the chassis on a flat surface.
4. tighen the football down.
5. slowly rotate the rear end,
ANY binding or clicking is bad. Re-adjust if it is binding. This must be done with no battery, shock disconected, damping tubes off and no motor. The extra mass will mask any binding.
6. Once you are happy, tighten down on the rear end.
After every race day and after any big hit, I recheck for binding. I have had traction links get loose and need to be replaced. If you pop them on an off more then a few times, they will get too loose to use. Probably should keep a few in your box for spares. I also check every screw and bolt for loosening, etc.
If one of the links is slightly longer then the other, you will get a rear steer effect. Personally I think this matters less then having a free rear end. To get the car to drive straight, the front wheels need to be trimmed. This will crab the car a little - but I don't think it will be bad enough to matter. A free front end and a free rear end matter so much more then a little (1/2 degree) crab.
If they are not free, your car will be inconsistent in the corners as the suspension jerks around.
Speedmerchants or adjustable rear links have a different procedure.
As to what can go wrong? Lots; but its no worse then a t-plate delaminating or the screw holes getting worn out, etc..