Originally posted by sands
They only allow for free movement to get it aligned properly - then you tighten the nuts to prevent any more movement. This is not any different than having to make sure your adjustable links on the rev3 are the same length - probably better, since there are no links to adjust.
I've yet to see anybody break a CRC link system this season anyway. ( I do use longer steel screws then stock in the pivot balls... )
I've never seen mine pop out of alignment - but then, I've never crashed that hard.
CRC has instructions on how to get it adjusted correctly - it's not really that bad. And no more involved then the REv3 instructions.
ok here we go talking about the link adjustment again. now lets think about this for a moment-there is a problem here. take your link car,set it down in front of you and really look at the pivot system. try to envision the implications of unequal lenght links.can you see? now the chassis,pod plate and football are all milled or machined-there are no imperfections there-so what could ther be to adjust? ah ha! the cheesey molded links! now take another good look and think about what this does-REAR WHEEL STEERING. if you have flaws in the molding process and links dont quite match each other,the only way to fix it is adjust the CAR around the LINKS.
wtf? please forgive me , maybe i am uptight but i spend my days repairing and rebuilding sterndrives(mercruiser and volvo/penta) there is no tolerance for "imperfections" in gear shimming procedures-so i expect everything to be like that