Originally Posted by
rmdhawaii
Just some questions...
Is anyone else running a Evo2 at your track?
What body are you running?
Have you tried 10K diff oil in the rear?
What shore tires are you running and is this much different than anyone else's?
Have you checked your bearings recently to make sure none are bad?
My .02 cents would be to start by changing the diff oil to 10K.
The Evo is the most popular car at our track.
Im running the Dodge 3.1, i tried the new R5-N body on the weekend and it was worse.
I havent tryed as low as 10K rear diff oil but i was down to 20K and it was worse than it was with higher oils. it got better with 50K but wasn't great so i went back to 30K whick is what everyone runs at our track.
It doesnt seem to matter what shore tires i run it still does it. i have tryed 37 through 42 and it doent mak a difference. 40's are the common tire for the track.
I just installed a new set of bearings and they all run free.
Originally Posted by
racer301
also what is the diameter? try 60mm front and 62mm rear
make sure your rear droop drops when you lift the rear suspension.
what is the ride height? front and rear?
I have tried all kinds of tyre diameters 57-59mm right up to 61-63mm and it didnt change a thing
that is the ride height i am running 5.5/6mm
Originally Posted by
Chickentrader
Strange; are you sure that there is no slip between front and rear in your drive train? We've also had problems like that at times, and it has always turned out to be caused by some silly problem in the drive train, but your rear droop is too short in my belief, and just wouldn't work in our setups.
Make sure that that your rear shockies have lots of travel; long shafts so the arms have heaps of up and down movement, and use the upper shock ball position on the arms or longer ball ends on the shockie shafts, if they don't have much down travel. Also important; disconnect the rear sway bar; the sway bar makes wheels on both sides work together; and you will get much more grip on bumpy and low grip tracks if you run an independent rear suspension. The car will lift the wheel when its going around a corner if it isn't totally free of any restrictions to the travel of the arms, and you want both rear wheels on the ground at all times in your case. Don't worry about chatter from too much droop at this stage; you can look into that later if it becomes a problem.
Kindest regards,
Lars.
This is exactly what i thought was the problem. its acting exactly like it would if it was rear wheel driving. problem is there is no slip. bi have tried new belts and gears this week and it didnt change a thing. all the drive is getting to the front.
Is there a longer shock shaft i can get? i have tried what you are saying and on the weekend i even unscrewed the ball ends a little further so they were 12.1mm instead of 11.5mm
a longer ball end wont give me any more droop as the shock length is really determined by the droop. i have made sure the shocks are longer that the arm position at full droop.
how much droop do you think i should be running? to get it i will have to run longer ball end so i will try it
I will also try running with out the rear sway bar and see if that helps
Thanks everyone
ill give all your tips a try. there are a few here that no one has given me yet so hopefully it will work
Im going to cempletely rebuild the car again and see if there is something binding aswell
Thanks again guys