Originally posted by Julius
To bad I needed to work on th only dry day in weeks shheezz 
Oh well...
Originally posted by Julius
You're right about the droop and drs arm when changing the lower pin position. If you change the top pin's position you'll need to check camber. If you are referring to Schrijver99's change. I think he only changed the top point to the out position. That gives more steering into corners. With a one way and low grip that doesn't work. But with the ball diff in front it balances the car nicely.
Yeah, you're right Julius. I just realised what was written by Schrijver99. Apologies for the oversight ! But I think if you change the upper pin from stock to outer (shorter upper rear arm, UBO/LB), that would only make the rear roll center only marginally higher than the stock if I'm not wrong. To get a significant increase in the rear roll center, the rear lower pin change is better.
Anyway, I notice that by going with the upper rear pin on the outer side (shorter upper rear arms, UBO), I need to turn the pivot balls out a lot to get -4 camber in the rear. The upper pivot ball is already turned in to the max. This makes the rear lower pivot balls very succeptible to stripping out of the plastic threads. The rear end trackwidth is 198 to 199 mm.
I also notice that with the stock shock lenghts in the rear (if I remember correctly, that was what I measured), I cannot get more droop in the rear than +6.
As for the rear diff, I notice that when the diff is cold, it gives a very tight setting. When the car comes in after a few good rounds, I notice that the diff will be slightly looser but then it stays constant. Just thought that people should notice this when checking diff settings of other cars...
If I use 4 mm spacers under the upper front arms to get a lower front roll center, I notice that I cannot use the lowest hole on the front shock tower.
Just some observations of mine.